Summer plans
1. King salmon fishing off Stinson Beach
2. Camping on Mount Shasta
3. A Million Little Pieces, by James Frey
Good sports
Surfing spots, skate
trips, and the long way down the mountain.
By Corbett Miller
SUMMER IS ALMOST here, at least outside of San Francisco. Which
means it's time for a day trip, or even a weekend away. Exercise, sunshine,
and fresh air are all good for you. But there's more to the great outdoors
than fun; there's also drowning, road rash, and concussions. Still,
that's better than walking around the Mission looking at overpriced
retro furniture that won't fit in your apartment anyway. So quit watching
ESPN X Games and Blue Torch Network and go damage
yourself in a beautiful, relaxing environment.
Surf's up, kind of
Summer is the best season to take up surfing. Up and down the California
coast (except here) the weather is regularly sunny, adding to the surf-life
atmosphere beginners require to convince themselves it's worth it to
keep venturing into the frigid water. More important, the waves are
generally smaller. Owing to a lack of arctic storms in the Gulf of Alaska
where the giant waves the annoyingly good surfers tear up all
winter long are generated the swells are small, few, and far
between. There are hundreds of great spots for beginners a day trip
away from San Francisco. Most will want to pick a spot where rental
gear, lessons, and other people who will notice if you're drowning are
nearby.
A short drive south of San Francisco, the quiet suburb of Pacifica
sits across the county line in San Mateo, and the 15-minute trip on
Highway 1 offers enough coastline scenery to make you feel like you've
left the concrete jungle far behind. This section of the coast is typically
foggy and overcast, which surf newbies might find discouraging. But
Pacifica's Linda Mar Beach lies in what's known as the Banana Belt,
a ravine that typically blocks out the fog, leaving the beach sunny.
First-timers can rent from two surf shops right at the beach. The always
courteous Sonlight Surfshop at the south end of Linda Mar offers rentals,
new and used surfboards, wet suits, and lessons. The 15-year-olds who
work at NorCal Surf Shop at the north end of the beach will surely give
you some attitude, but they've got rental boards and suits, lessons,
and a fairly well-stocked selection of new and used boards for sale.
Sonlight Surfshop, 575 Crespi, Pacifica. (650) 359-5471. NorCal Surf
Shop, 5460 Cabrillo Hwy., Pacifica. (650) 738-9283.
If you keep going down Highway 1, you'll soon reach northern California
surfing's Valhalla, Santa Cruz. Don't be intimidated by the stories
of fierce locals bashing Sili Valley types for dropping in on waves.
If you're a beginner, Santa Cruz has the best break in all of California
for you to learn at: Cowells Beach.
At the north end of the ancient and totally depressing Santa Cruz Boardwalk,
the waves at Cowells gently peel left to right off the point where you'll
find the famous Steamers Lane on the northern side. (Beginners: Do not
confuse Steamers with Cowells. If you do, you may not make it out.)
Cowells's gentle, slow-peeling wave is perfect for learners, even when
it's crowded, which it usually is. Keep in mind that low tide is the
best time for this break.
There are so many places to rent surfboards near Cowells that it would
be ridiculous to list them here, but if you're interested in getting
a lesson, check out world-renowned big-wave surfer Richard Schmidt's
Santa Cruz-based surf school, with beginner lessons at Cowells. Schmidt
is known to be a great teacher at all levels, making sure everyone gets
what he or she needs out of the lesson. Richard Schmidt School of
Surfing, 849 Almar, Box 192, Santa Cruz. (831) 423-0928.
The $5 Golden Gate Bridge toll to get back into the city is no fun,
but Marin has a couple of great beginner spots worth checking out. Take
101 north, get off at the Stinson Beach/Mill Valley exit, and follow
the road signs to Stinson Beach. The south end of the beach is typically
the best, with more peaks and generally a better swell coming from the
north. The town is quiet and bucolic besides, nobody's afraid
of Marin kids getting rough over turf wars. If you need to rent boards
and a wet suit, you'd better stop at Marin Surf Sports in Mill Valley
to get set up; the surf shop in town is more focused on clothing than
on equipment. Marin Surf Sports, 254 Shoreline Hwy., Mill Valley.
(415) 381-9283.
Even better than Stinson and less well known is Bolinas. The town's
residents are famous for their distaste for anyone knowing their town
exists (how do you get famous for lack of exposure?). But they've got
two great breaks for beginners, a new surf shop with rental equipment,
and a long-standing surf school now running out of the new shop. The
first of the two breaks is at the mouth of the Bolinas Lagoon. Follow
the main road into town until it ends at the beach; you can see the
break from there. The other one is a little farther north. From the
main road, take a right on Brighton Avenue and follow it to the beach;
you can see the break from there. 2-Mile Surf Shop and Bolinas Surf
Lessons, 22 Brighton, Bolinas. (415) 868-0264.
Down 'n' dirty
People in the mountain bike scene say the sport was born in Marin,
more accurately on Mount Tamalpais, so it's no surprise downhill mountain
biking spots abound all over the Bay Area. The following ones are farther
afield but guaranteed to get your heart pumping, and not exactly from
peddling uphill. Downhill mountain biking is fast, fun, and very fucking
dangerous. Please wear fully protective body armor, or at least a helmet.
The Downieville Downhill, located near the gold-country town of Downieville
(population 300) in the Sierra Nevada northeast of Lake Tahoe, is an
epic ride that drops 4,500 feet over 15 snaky miles. The Downieville
Downhill can be sort of like trying to drive while talking on the cell
phone; don't spend too long looking at the great vistas or you're going
to eat shit.
The Downieville Outfitters can get you set up with a shuttle and rental
bikes if necessary. Downieville's quite a haul from San Francisco, so
consider staying in town or camping at one of several nearby campgrounds.
The Yuba River, great for a frigid rinse after a terrifying race down
the mountain, is a good enough reason to stick around, maybe even for
a day of rafting. Downieville Outfitters, 208 Main, Downieville.
(530) 289-0155.
The well-known ski resort Northstar-at-Tahoe may suck during the winter
months, but come summertime, Northstar offers the best ski lift-accessed
mountain biking around. It's nothing but fast downhill all day long
no climbing nothing, just tons of jumps and burms and other things
to scare the shit out of you. You have to wait until the snow melts,
so the official opening date of the mountain bike park (closed Tues.-Wed.)
is set for June 20. Expect to shell out for the convenience of the lifts.
Check Northstar's Web site for prices and directions. Northstar-at-Tahoe,
(530) 562-1010 or 1-800-466-6784, www.skinorthstar.com.
If you're looking for something closer than the Sierras but you're
tired of the Tamalpais crowd, try Skeggs Point, a.k.a. El Corte de Madera,
off Skyline Boulevard in San Mateo County. Skeggs Point has about a
gazillion miles of everything from vicious downhill single-track trails
to meandering fire roads. The amazing terrain varies from dry and dusty
to lush and ferny. Watch out for second-growth redwoods and, on weekends,
hikers.
Skate trip
Northern California skate parks suck when compared with Oregon parks
everybody who skates knows that. Granted, there have been a few
I repeat, few decent skate parks built near San Francisco
in the last couple of years (Ripon and Sunnyvale), but even those suck
next to almost everything in Oregon. So now that summer is here and
the rain has stopped up north (maybe), it's time for the skate trip.
Once you reach Ashland, just across the Oregon border on I-5, you can
hit a great skate park every half hour until Portland. They get even
better if you come back down on Highway 1, so pick a long weekend at
least. Leaving a couple of hours for each one plus time for food,
drinking, maybe a little sleep that's plenty of parks ready to
leave you damaged until next summer. Here's a rundown of the best parks
on your way to and from Burnside in Portland. Phone numbers included
are for each town's city hall, the best place to get info.
Ashland's park has a bit of everything, from a big triple bowl
to a snake run. This one will get you primed for the bigger shit you
have yet see. Garfield Skate Park, E. Hersey Street at Water Street,
Ashland, Ore. (541) 488-6002.
The park in Talent that's right, Talent is wide
open, with tons of lines. Talent Skate Park, E. Main Street at John
Street, Talent, Ore. (541) 535-1566.
Medford is big not the city, but the park. A concrete
half-pipe, smooth transitions, and a huge bowl make this park a must-skate.
Bear Creek Skate Park, Highland Drive at Siskiyou Boulevard, Medford,
Ore. (541) 744-2000.
Aumsville's park is another huge one, similar to Talent in that
it's wide open, with endless lines, but with bigger walls, better coping,
and less street crap. Brian Haney Memorial Skate Park, Main Street
at 13th Street, Aumsville, Ore. (503) 749-2030.
Just south of Portland off I-5, Newberg's skate park is hailed by many
as the best in the world. Well, those are opinions, but Newburg is huge,
unbelievably big, with hips, vert walls, and everything California parks
are lacking. Chehalem Skate Park, 1201 Blaine, Newberg, Oregon. (503)
538-7454.
Burnside in the morning. That's the best time to go if you're
from out of town and aren't skating with a local friend. Burnside is
history, even if it doesn't measure up to the new parks popping up all
over Oregon. Burnside Bridge, Second Avenue at Ash Street, Portland,
Ore. Phone number not available.
Following the coast south from Portland, you'll find Lincoln City.
The park there is a must-not-miss, with big walls and smooth lines,
but it's crowded and dangerous. Kirtsis Park, N.E. Reef Street at
N.E. 22nd Avenue, Lincoln City, Ore. (541) 994-2131.
Port Orford's coastline park is the home of the "cradle,"
an upright bowl waiting to toss unsuspecting skaters onto their heads.
You have been warned wear a goddamn helmet. Buffington Park,
13th St. at Arizona, Port Orford, Ore. (541) 332-3681.
Brookings has the latest Oregon park built by park masters Dreamland,
with a huge doughnut shape, a triple bowl in the middle, and walls from
4 to 10 feet. Just over the border from California, Brookings is one
of the best things to happen to northern California skaters. Bud
Cross Park, Third Street at Hassett Street, Brookings, Ore. (541) 469-2163.