(No Duraflame here.) Meanwhile, newcomer Terzo has a cozy hearth that complements its slick and attractive space; its extensive menu of Mediterranean and seasonal small plates supplies some old-world hominess.
Kokkari, 200 Jackson, SF. (415) 981-0983, www.kokkari.com; Terzo, 3011 Steiner, SF. (415) 441-3200, www.terzosf.com
A steamy room isn't normally considered an asset, but when it's nippy out, nothing quite beats the front room of Woodward's Garden for snuggly respite. The open kitchen cranks up the ambient temperature and sends out seasonal and substantial dishes such as pork chops, lamb shanks, and homemade ravioli. Depending on what's cookin', you also might walk out smelling a little smoky, but don't say we didn't warn you.
1700 Mission, SF. (415) 621-7122, www.woodwardsgarden.com