Buns and the city - Page 2

Digging in to the streetwise beef of Urbun Burger and Mission Burger
Urbun Burger
Photo by Rory McNamara

There is a small family of low benches squatting against one wall, as if in the lounge of a forlorn regional airport. You probably don't want to sit there. Mission Burger is fundamentally a takeout operation, but also a made-to-order one.

But one of the virtues of a genuine fatburger is that it travels well. As insurance, the briochy-looking bun is lined with jack cheese, spicy caper mayonnaise, and a slathering of caramelized onions. This combination isn't exactly coherent, but it is tasty. Plus, there are fries, and they are as good as McDonald's fries used to be back in the day when they were fried in beef tallow. For a bit of color: coleslaw made with red cabbage. It's appealingly creamy, although that doesn't do much for the calorie count — not that it matters in the shadow of Mount Fatburger. Could it be the highest point in the Mission?


Mon.–Thurs., 11 a.m.–10 p.m.;

Fri.–Sat., 11 a.m.–11 p.m.

581 Valencia, SF

(415) 551-2483


Beer and wine



Wheelchair accessible


Lunch: Fri.–Wed., noon–3 p.m.

2200 Mission, SF

(415) 551-1772

No alcohol



Wheelchair accessible

Also from this author

  • The last supper

    Food writer Paul Reidinger bids farewell after more than a decade covering the San Francisco food scene

  • Radish

    Staging well-crafted feats of new all-American, neatly tucked away from the Valencia Street h-words

  • Boxing Room

    A warm Hayes Valley spot that punches up the Cajun trend with lagniappe, mirilton, and po'boys