Mirror, mirror: Specchio offers stylishly traditional north-Italian cooking in an ultra-modern Mission setting
Swordfish, as the meatiest of fish, needs no introduction and very little help — just some tabs of braised leek and grapefruit sections, say, atop a grilled steak (prix-fixe), itself seated atop a bed of roasted potato, zucchini, and red bell pepper. The leek and grapefruit made an unexpected and appealing combination: a fruity sharpness with an undertone of earth.
Complaining about tiramisù is almost as cliché as tiramisù itself, so I am pleased to report that Specchio's tiramisù was as good as could be: moist but not soggy, with a nice balance between the competing charges of espresso and liquor. (The great weakness of tiramisù is too much booze, which leads to sogginess and drunk-breath.) Equally impressive, in the Italian tradition of classic simplicity, was a pat of lightly sweetened ricotta cheese topped with a syrupy strawberry reduction that was more fruit than sweet. It was like a small piece of cheesecake, with no crust. Is there a Chef Boyardee take on this? I hope not.
Dinner: Tues.–Thurs., Sun., 5:30–10:30 p.m.;
Fri.–Sat., 5:30–11 p.m.
2331 Mission, SF
Wine and beer,
Most Commented On
- Navajo Nation Makes Healthy Food Choices Tax-Free - March 15, 2014
- It happens because SF spends $165 million a year on the homeless - March 15, 2014
- They have that right only as long as they do not commit - March 15, 2014
- Who put you in charge of who deserves to live here? - March 15, 2014
- Cleaning up the plaze requires only that the SRO residents are - March 15, 2014
- If Zuckerberg can live in the Mission, Steven, then why not - March 15, 2014
- Idora, you are the one who implied that this guy could not - March 15, 2014
- Still, nobody is being "displaced" by this project - March 15, 2014
- The bond for a $23,000 bail is 10% or $2,300 which you do not - March 15, 2014
- I knew it was you - March 15, 2014