Reinventing the steakhouse with subtle attention to beef and uncommon accompaniments

After all that, dessert should be light-hearted, and maybe just plain light. A nice example is the plate of green-tea doughnuts ($8), presented with a globe of macha ice cream and a pot of intense, coarse, barely sweet raspberry jam. Hints of bitter, sour, sweet, creamy, crunchy, gooey — and we have at least one small slice of life in balance.
5A5
Dinner: Mon.–Sat., 5:30–9:30 p.m.;
Sun., 5:30–9 p.m.
244 Jackson, SF
(415) 989-2539
Full bar
AE/MC/v
Gentle noise
Wheelchair accessible (elevator to restrooms)
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Food writer Paul Reidinger bids farewell after more than a decade covering the San Francisco food scene
Staging well-crafted feats of new all-American, neatly tucked away from the Valencia Street h-words
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