Kebabs of chicken tikka ($9) — boneless cubes of a rather orange hue, like tandoori chicken — were expertly seasoned and wonderfully plump and tender. But a kachoomar salad ($5), though a colorful jumble of diced onions, cucumber, tomatoes, and cilantro, was a little too salty despite the advertised (and presumably acidic) lemon vinaigrette. The saltiness came from what seemed to me like fish sauce — another hint of southeast Asia.
And, for the second week in a row, a winning dessert makes an improbable appearance. I've had plenty of kulfi (a kind of ice cream) before and never been particularly wowed. But Ruchi's pistachio version ($5), though possibly the least colorful item on the menu (it looked like a bit of ice floe), gave intense pleasure both as flavor and texture, the latter a fudgy denseness with the faintest hint of granularity. Housemade, too; accept no substitute.
Lunch: Mon.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Mon.–Sat., 5–9 p.m.
474 Third St., SF
Beer and wine