To my mind there is no better chicken preparation in the world than al mattone, or under a brick, and Capannina's version ($19 for a half-bird) couldn't be improved on: crisp, golden skin all over, juicy flesh cooked through to the bone, and not much bone. The leaking juice helped animate the chard and crisp potato dice arranged along the side of the plate.
And about the cannoli ($8): exceptional, in a word. These were finger-sized pastry flutes, boldly fried, oozing mascarpone laced with candied fruit — a kind of creamed panettone — and served with an espresso sauce for dipping. Caution, though; they were rich beyond any tax-cutter's wildest fantasies.
Dinner: Sun.–Thurs., 5–10 p.m.;
Fri.–Sat., 5–10:30 p.m.
1809 Union, SF
Beer and wine