Stoked a la Cote: this Potrero spot plays Nice (as in France) with flavorful pies and loads of focaccia
The pizzas are thin-crust, made (according to the menu) in the style of Recco, a town in the northern Italian region of Liguria, not far from Nice. The array of toppings is mostly conventional, although the kitchen does throw together various specials, including a pie ($16) topped with hot Italian sausage, red and yellow bell peppers, mushrooms, a red-onion confit, and broccoli florets — all of which runs against the basic article of American faith that more is better. Sometimes more isn't better. Broccoli doesn't translate well to pizza, and we found the red-onion jam to be jarringly sweet.
But — on the subject of sweets — the olive-oil cake ($6), a cupcake-like disk, was dense and moist. It could have stood without assistance from the large pat of limoncello gelato on the side, although the gelato was a nice touch.
Dinner: nightly, 5:30–10 p.m.
Lunch: Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
Brunch: Sat.–Sun., noon–3 p.m.
300 De Haro, SF
Beer and wine
Not too noisy
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