Grub - Page 2

Valencia Street may be jumping the restaurant shark, but this upscale greasy spoon rides the wave deliciously

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Wild Pacific red snapper with crab and potatoes at Grub
PHOTO BY RORY MCNAMARA

But the menu offers other meals unto themselves, too, with a bit more polish. Grilled tiger prawns ($15) were arranged atop a butternut squash risotto heavily leavened with Parmesan cheese, whose tang balanced what otherwise might have become a cloying sweetness. A filet of Pacific snapper ($16) was "crusted" — "smeared" would have been more accurate — with what seemed like crab-cake batter and seated on a pad of celery-root puree with a pool of carrot-butter-white wine sauce and watercress salad. And the osso buco ($17) arrived in autumnal, rather grave guise atop mashed potatoes with a burgundy-charged sauce and fried shoestring carrots. The meat was fork-tender, and as someone who's been making osso buco for years (from the same Patty Wells recipe), I can tell you this isn't a given, even with long simmering. As for mashed potatoes instead of the more traditional risotto: eh. The potatoes did have a dense, mousseline-like velvetiness, which led me to suspect the involvement of tons of butter. But then, at higher-end sort of greasy spoon, you would expect a higher grade of grease, and butter is the grease of the gods, or at least godlets.

GRUB

Dinner: nightly, 6 p.m.–12:30 a.m.

Brunch: Sat.–Sun., 10 a.m.–2:30 p.m.

758 Valencia, SF

(415) 431-GRUB (4782)

www.grubsf.com

Beer and wine

AE/MC/V

Noisy

Wheelchair accessible

 

Comments

about 15 years ago a sitting president ate on Valencia Street at this restaurant called the "The Slanted Door". Valencia has had its foofy places near it's dives for almost 20 years.

Posted by Guest on Feb. 16, 2011 @ 4:51 pm

Just FYI, I was having lunch with a friend at the Valencia Slanted Door sometime in the late 1990s (before it moved to its transitional home on the Embarcadero), and a homeless guy drifted in and started shouting. He had to be eased out. Bit of a scene. I don't see this sort of thing playing out at Grub. --PR

Posted by Guest on Mar. 03, 2011 @ 12:52 pm

I'd like Paul Reidinger's reviews a lot better if he wasn't hammering the same old point repeatedly. We get it, dude. You are one of the OG Missionites, you moved there way before it was cool, nothing that's new and/or hip can slide by your food reviewing without this exact same reminder. It's getting old.

Sure, take on a place that seems really out of context in the neighborhood, but your rose-tinted glasses about this hood (that long ago became a destination spot for young/alternative/older/yuppie-but-wanting-edge) are so predictable they color the rest of your writing as being out of step. I could care less about Grub, but I will say there was an oxygen bar not far from there in the late '90s. The Mission isn't a hidden secret, as much as you seem to like couching it that way. If you could focus more on the food (where your writing is much stronger) and save your predictable nostalgia for places where it's really warranted, people would take you more seriously as a critic.

Posted by You Were in the Mission Before We Were Born on Feb. 16, 2011 @ 6:45 pm

Sorry, I'm not an "OG Missionite," as you confidently put it. Have never lived there. And I'm not sentimental or nostalgic about the old days. And, yes, I knew about Oxygen Bar -- wrote about it, in fact. It was nothing like Grub, in food or tone. --PR

Posted by Guest on Mar. 03, 2011 @ 11:43 am

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