The 13-year-old Hayes Valley brasserie rides high on classic touches and contemporary quality, without the usual coldness
Speaking of worthy: a skirt steak ($24) that was actually tender as well as tasty. The meat was served with black-garlic mashed potatoes (black garlic being fermented and slightly sweet), which were not in fact black, more of a caramel color, but still dramatic. Less dramatic but important in supporting roles were a green-peppercorn jus and braised artichokes.
No sweet confection has ever disappointed me more than German chocolate cake. Despite Germany's formidable reputation in chocolate, German chocolate has long seemed unpersuasive, and it isn't even the right color. Absinthe's version ($9) did have the fearsome hepatic pallor, but it was layered with crushed almonds, capped with dollops of coconut-like foam (like little meringues), festooned with candied walnuts, and altogether had a complex, not-too-sweet chocolatiness even a skeptic could love.
Tues.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.-midnight;
Sat., 11.a.m.–midnight; Sun., 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
398 Hayes, SF
Well-managed noise, but not quiet
Most Commented On
- They're attempting to appeal - May 25, 2013
- End time - May 25, 2013
- Nope, the "other side" actually want the poeple to have the - May 25, 2013
- show times - May 25, 2013
- Advice on Seats - May 25, 2013
- The GOP were also written off in 2008 when Obama won and then - May 25, 2013
- "We never miss a chance to prove how politically savvy we are" - May 25, 2013
- Some do; some don't. - May 25, 2013
- Because they don't want to admit they're the patsies. - May 25, 2013
- My bad. Apologies to the real Starchild. - May 25, 2013