This Peruvian hot spot has gone through several changes -- but its dishes remain brightly seasoned and eminently shareable
Despite a certain perfunctory quality, the dessert menu does offer a stellar possibility: the chocolate bandido ($7.25), a warm chocolate cake with brandy sauce and crème anglaise. The simplicity is deceptive and wise, because the chocolate is an engulfing experience, texturally somewhere between cake and fudge and of a singular intensity, like dark sexual heat. When you have chocolate like this, you really don't care if the pastry chef has scattered some berries on the plate or made artful doodles with mint cream. No: you're a fastball pitcher, you bring the heat. Let the batter worry about getting some wood on it.
Daily: noon–10:30 p.m.
1001 S. Van Ness, SF
Beer and wine
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