Serving artful plates in an environment that encourages diners to loosen the tie
The roasted quail ($26) was substantial and bolstered by a sauté of arugula and haricots verts that looked like a neglected garden being overrun by trailing vines. And Oregon steelhead ($26) featured a lovely slaw of shredded fennel root marinated in citrus along with lobster beignets, mysterious little fritters with no detectable taste of lobster. I add them to my growing dossier of proofs that lobster is overrated.
One item on the dessert menu neatly reprised, for me, my sense of 25 Lusk: the medjool date cake ($10) served with a pat of apricot ice cream and small thatch of candied ginger. The cake itself was splendid and datey, the ice cream intensely apricoty and not very sweet, and the candied ginger sublime. But they each stood apart on the plate, like young teenagers at a party, segregated by sex. "Go forth and mingle!" I longed to cry, before giving a lusty shove with my fork.
Dinner: Sun.–Thurs., 5:30–10 p.m.;
Fri.–Sat., 5:30–11 p.m.
Brunch: Sun., 11 a.m.–2 p.m.
25 Lusk, SF
Wheelchair accessible (elevator)