Globe - Page 2

The world keeps turning at this pared-down, purposeful standby

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Grilled Creekstone Delmonico steak for two features on Globe's succinct menu
PHOTO BY RORY MCNAMARA

Several of the main courses offered an attractive char. A filet of wild coho salmon ($22) was laid atop a bed of boccacino pasta, with braised rapini, aglio e olio, and salsa verde — a Globe classic. One small niggle: the pasta, long fat tubes like bucatini on steroids, was awkward to eat gracefully. More user-friendly was the Cornish game hen ($21). The little bird seemed to have been largely boned out, and was plated atop a marvelous green garlic risotto that was not only beautifully cooked and seasoned but as bright a green as spring itself.

Only in the desserts did I detect any sign of fatigue and disengagement. A slice of amaretto cheesecake ($8) was quite good, very intense with almond and just sweet enough to win the day, but the apple tart ($8) could have used a serious rethink. The idea seemed to have been to deconstruct it, with apple slices laid on what looked like a napkin of pastry and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The glory of apple tarts is the melding of caramelized apple with nicely crisped pastry; here the pastry was sepulchral, the apples not caramelized. It was the flat-earth version, in need of some roundedness. 

GLOBE

Dinner: Mon.–Sat., 6 p.m.–1 a.m.; Sun., 6 p.m.–midnight

Lunch: Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

290 Pacific, SF

(415) 391-4132

www.globerestaurant.com

Full bar

AE/MC/V

Noisy

Wheelchair accessible

 

Comments

Nice to hear you had something @Globe to enjoy. Friends and I experienced unpleasantries to the hilt.

I had two dinners there in the past month.
The waitress brought out a grilled fish dish that had every table around staring sour-faced b/c it smelled fouler than a dirty wharf. The chef, sous-chef, line cook and waitress should have never put that out but they put it on the table. When we sent it back, no apologies and no replacement. The waitress also avoided us the rest of the night b/c the faux pas was so extreme. It was the worst-smelling food I've ever had in any restaurant. So something's awry there, big time.

The mac-n-cheese was also entirely bland.

The service was entirely absent and/or absent-minded. In both visits.

A year ago, their Sunday supper was sublime. Now, something is really abominably wrong with the tood, the wait staff, everything but the brick walls.

Posted by Guest on May. 09, 2011 @ 2:29 pm

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