Pasión - Page 2

Technicolored marinades on a Peruvian-powered, pan-Latino menu 

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The ceviche trio pops in Pasión's Miami-tinged digs
GUARDIAN PHOTO BY RORY MCNAMARA

Is there a good way to serve paella in a restaurant? Calvo-Perez was probably bound to try to figure one out, since he apprenticed in Spain. My thought would be to make a big, proper one every hour or so and serve portions of it, but Pasión appears to follow a made-to-order model. The kitchen's vegetarian version, called arroz verde ($18), was made with cilantro rice and did have a green sheen, but it was as much gray as green, and this wasn't reassuring. The dish, although presented in a small, cast-iron paella pan, lacked the crust of caramelized rice you hope will form on the bottom. It was also afflicted by a bitterness we finally traced to large chunks of celery, lurking in the murk like alligators in a bog among the green peas, shiitake mushrooms, pickled carrots, and green beans. It also featured an abundance of red onion slivers, which were methodically plucked out (not by me), like bits of shrapnel being removed from a wounded soldier. Obviously some people feel passionately about raw red onions.

Pasión

Dinner: Sun.–Thurs., 5–10 p.m.;

Fri.–Sat., 5–11 p.m.

Brunch: Sat.–Sun., 10 a.m.–3 p.m.

737 Irving, SF

(415) 742-5727

www.pasionsf.com

Full bar

AE/DS/MC/V

Noisy

Wheelchair accessible

 

Comments

haven't eaten there yet, but folks who can't handle celery or red onions should stick to writing yelp reviews.

Posted by Guest on Jun. 27, 2011 @ 2:13 pm

Mochica and La Mar are tough acts to follow, but Pasion definitely has its charms. Way better than the old PJ's Oyster Bed that used to occupy the space.

I love the mix-and-match ceviche samplers, the duck empanadas were the best empanadas -evah! Sangria was among the most flavorful I've ever had, though regrettably it doesn't quite pack the same punch as the ones at Mochica.

And if I'm not mistaken, I don't believe they tacked on that tacky Healthy SF charge. It's become a real pet peeve of mine when restaurants do that. If it's such a burden, just raise the prices. But tacking on a separate charge is like giving San Francisco the middle finger, as if to underscore how much they hate having to pay for people's health care. I'm glad that Pasion chooses to incorporate the costs into their menu prices, which incidentally are among the most reasonable in town for the quality of the food.

Posted by Greg on Jul. 06, 2011 @ 9:16 pm

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