The pizzas buck the local trend by using a slightly thicker, puffier crust. One nice feature of puffs: they blister well. Blisters suggest that the pie has been rushed to you straight from the oven, like a popover. The topping combinations are elegant and restrained; even a relatively lavish pie, the Fillmore ($15.95), with leeks, mozzarella, hen-of-the-wood mushrooms, garlic, thyme, and three cheeses (parmesan, pecorino, fontina), remained coherent, with fresh herb breath.
But Zero Zero's best feature is probably its build-your-own-dessert option. You choose your base ($4), your ice cream ($4.95) — simple flavors but housemade — and your toppings ($1 each). Olive oil and sea salt are among them, but so is chocolate hazelnut crunch. Which would you rather have?
Dinner: Sun.–Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m.;
Fri.–Sat., 5:30–11 p.m.
Lunch: Mon.–-Fri., noon–-2:30 p.m.
Brunch: Sat.–Sun., 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
826 Folsom, SF