Criolla Kitchen - Page 2

Doing delta right in the Castro, with crunchy mirliton salads, shrimp po'boys, and of course, hush puppies

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A Criolla po'boy for your pleasure
GUARDIAN PHOTO BY BEN HOPFER

All the juiciness absent from the ribs turned up in the fried chicken ($12.90), a full half-bird served with red beans and rice. Even the breast meat was juicy, while the skin and the artfully seasoned batter had fused into a shell that was an experience unto itself — almost like shards of savory candy.

Dessert could only be pecan pie ($3.90), which was not at all cloying and for that matter didn't even really resemble a slice of pie — more a kind of crumble, with chunks and bits of pastry everywhere. We didn't mind, but ... is there such a thing as a pie shredder?

CRIOLLA KITCHEN

Dinner: Sun..–Thurs., 6–11 p.m.;

Fri.–Sat., 6 p.m.–midnight

Brunch: Sat.–Sun., 10:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.

2295 Market, SF

(415) 552-5811

www.criollakitchen.com

Beer and wine

AE/DS/MC/V

Noisy

Wheelchair accessible

 

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