Tasty new wine bars, contemplating Grand Cru at To Kalon, and a lively new book about vino
DRINKING IN PAGES
My recent flights overseas required some serious reading, and finishing Natalie Maclean's new Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World's Best Bargain Wines (www.nataliemaclean.com) helped a 10-hour flight pass quickly.
Each section hits a different part of the world in search of high quality, value wines. From South Africa to Sicily, wine terms and history are subtly slipped into stories about individual winemakers and pairing recipes. A cheery book cover belies Ms. Maclean's skill with imagery (she's won the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award and four James Beard Foundation Journalism Awards). For example, in her particularly engaging chapter on German riesling, she compares riesling as the "quivering ... opera diva Sarah Brightman singing pop tunes... [with a] range [that] stretches far beyond what I hear," to popular chardonnays as: "breathy pop stars who have to whisper the high notes."
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