Inspired pairings: a recent spate of star chef collabs yielded gorgeous dishes
Unpredictable touches jumped out, like Fox's frozen "white snow" over corn pudding topped with grilled sweetbreads and tempura-fried okra (paired beautifully with a 2006 Pierre Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay), or another Fox hit: bone marrow puree animating hearts of palm, skinned red potato and poached ruby fish, happily paired with a cup of duck consommé tea. The meaty tea seamlessly interacted with the vegetables and bone marrow, highlighting a masculine mischievousness in Fox's stylish cooking. Besides her truly imaginative take on tomatoes, my other favorite Crenn dish arrived dramatically on a scooped stone slab graced with a chocolate branch and an edible, glistening silk nest filled with dehydrated vanilla pods over sweet corn and porcini mushrooms. Like a treasure found in an enchanted forest, the dish explored both savory and sweet whimsically, a feminine wildness tempered by refinement.
We'll see more from both skilled chefs — and many others — during SF Chefs days' long extravaganza, which I look forward to every year in tented Union Square. It's a pleasure to witness our region's best collaborate with each other and the finest globally, a reminder as to how the Bay Area is in the midst of yet another culinary renaissance, one of many the past few decades.
Subscribe to Virgina's twice-monthly newsletter, The Perfect Spot, www.theperfectspotsf.com
Most Commented On
- It's hard to make capital investments when - July 24, 2014
- The dish on knish - July 24, 2014
- London can do that - July 24, 2014
- Sunday Streets are a success thanks to Susan - July 24, 2014
- How? Wanna back up that - July 24, 2014
- Israel unilaterally withdrew - July 24, 2014
- Snap sounds - July 24, 2014
- Israel is surrounded by nations that wish it to be destroyed - July 24, 2014
- Yo, it's hard to see another meaning to the phrase: - July 24, 2014
- When Hamas fires rockets at civilian areas - July 24, 2014