The seven-year-old favorite's New Southern cuisine improves with age (and a new chef).
Pierce's wine pairings and frank, engaging welcome are another key part of what makes Maverick special. (We share a New Jersey past, and you can still sense some of that state about him.) His love of wine has grown since his days at Sociale. The thoughful wine list is inclusive of some of California's more interesting small labels like Wind Gap and Le P'Tit Paysan. A 2009 Cru Pinot from Monterey is perfection with the grits. The anise hyssop dotting tasso-cured duck "prosciutto" pops when paired with a floral, crisp 2011 Domaine de la Fouquette Grenache-Cinsault-Syrah-Rolle rose from Provence. Ask Pierce about his Junk Food Wine Pairing series — he'll pair wines with the likes of Slim Jims and Doritos.
I appreciate that even sans hard liquor license, Maverick attempts creative cocktails ($9) using vermouth and sake in low alcohol aperitifs. Some work better than others, but the attentive use of local products like Sutton Cellars vermouth is something I wish more wine and beer only restaurants would do. The most consistent drink is a ginger lemon fizz, utilizing Sutton's dry vermouth, bright with ginger, Meyer lemon, and dreamy honey foam.
At Maverick, attentive staff, intimate dining room, and unique explorations of a well-known regional cuisine exhibit what makes Southern cooking so beloved in the first place: heart.
3316 17th St., SF
Subscribe to Virgina's twice-monthly newsletter, The Perfect Spot, www.theperfectspotsf.com