Maverick - Page 2

The seven-year-old favorite's New Southern cuisine improves with age (and a new chef).

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Maverick's crispy fried chicken is as juicy on the inside as ever.
GUARDIAN PHOTO BY VIRGINIA MILLER

Pierce's wine pairings and frank, engaging welcome are another key part of what makes Maverick special. (We share a New Jersey past, and you can still sense some of that state about him.) His love of wine has grown since his days at Sociale. The thoughful wine list is inclusive of some of California's more interesting small labels like Wind Gap and Le P'Tit Paysan. A 2009 Cru Pinot from Monterey is perfection with the grits. The anise hyssop dotting tasso-cured duck "prosciutto" pops when paired with a floral, crisp 2011 Domaine de la Fouquette Grenache-Cinsault-Syrah-Rolle rose from Provence. Ask Pierce about his Junk Food Wine Pairing series — he'll pair wines with the likes of Slim Jims and Doritos.

I appreciate that even sans hard liquor license, Maverick attempts creative cocktails ($9) using vermouth and sake in low alcohol aperitifs. Some work better than others, but the attentive use of local products like Sutton Cellars vermouth is something I wish more wine and beer only restaurants would do. The most consistent drink is a ginger lemon fizz, utilizing Sutton's dry vermouth, bright with ginger, Meyer lemon, and dreamy honey foam.

At Maverick, attentive staff, intimate dining room, and unique explorations of a well-known regional cuisine exhibit what makes Southern cooking so beloved in the first place: heart.

MAVERICK

3316 17th St., SF

415-863-3061

www.sfmaverick.com

Subscribe to Virgina's twice-monthly newsletter, The Perfect Spot, www.theperfectspotsf.com

Comments

$24 for fried chicken. their is a sucker born every minute as the old saying goes. someone is making a great profit.

Posted by ron on Aug. 01, 2012 @ 8:34 am

Yep, just bags of money to be made owning a restaurant.

I'm sure you'll be opening yours soon to take advantage of this get rich quick scheme.

Posted by Guest on Aug. 05, 2012 @ 3:32 pm

Hey Ron - maybe you should go back to your 20 piece bucket o' wings from KFC. Looks like you're not grown up enough to eat adult food.

Posted by Guest on Sep. 11, 2012 @ 4:12 pm

It's "there is" not "their". You used the wrong form.

Posted by Guest on Oct. 18, 2012 @ 8:02 am

I love how in this city people equate paying outrageous prices for food as for adults or sophisticated as if somehow a barometer of good taste, like the 12.00 martini, and the overpriced food in this city that is bought by the Obama sheeple, sycophantic, zombie, liberal, lunatics, that care more about their looks, Facebook, Twitter, and looking as if they really don't care about what they wear while spending insane time buying and spending vast money on these thrift store type clothes at expensive boutiques in Hayes valley. These people won't, can't or are too lazy to cook. I grew up in L.A. my brothers and sisters would go to Shakey's Pizza buffet, yes the food was not quite gourmet, but then we were not isane like poeople today, we did not think we deserved the best food every night or twice a week at crazy prices that could pay someones rent in Fresno, these people that own these just too cool restaurants are greedy and taking advantage of these suckers that go there. Shakey's where we got pizza, chicken, spaghetti, meatballs, garlic bread, soda. milk, tea, ice cream, pudding, and more. We were kids, and adults, and we had fun and we spent little, we had more fun that sitting with a bunch of fucking tools.

Where did this idea that it was cool to go out and eat expensive food? It was meant for special occasions not a lifestyle. SF full of fake and ignorant wannabee's.
Best times when you cook for your girlfriend, basic meals, roast chicken, an average steak, soup, chili, why does everything now have to be going out, buying a bottle of wine, and eating trendy chic food. This is why SF is now a crap city.

Posted by Guest on Mar. 04, 2013 @ 4:31 am

money than you have, then why don't you move somewhere more cheap, gritty and working class like, say, Fresno?

Posted by anon on Mar. 04, 2013 @ 7:01 am

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