More than just poutine (but that, too): Surprising flavors enliven a brief tour through one of Canada's culinary capitals
BOUDIN NOIR AT CLOCHER PENCHE
This is the place: a former bank on a corner in the neat Saint-Roch district, transformed into a magnet for foodies (there are some gentrification issues here, yes). The innovative menu doesn't show its hand too much — you're getting deeply thought-through, hyperlocal fare, but that fact's not treated like a showy gimmick, plastered everywhere. One stand-out: blood pudding sausage ($23.95), melting with rich, dark pork and accompanied by pineapple (OK, not so local always) chutney and hearty fresh vegetables. Desserts are a must — tiny chocolate squares as dense as black holes dot caramelized bananas in rum sauce with sticky popcorn; érable (maple) flavor erupts in a warm fritter crusted with sweet pecans.
203, rue Saint-Joseph Est, www.clocherpenche.ca