SO THE OFT -flipped storefront space at 1007 Guerrero St. – onetime home of Robert Reynolds's long-running Le Trou and, since 1996, occupied by a sequence of short-lived successors, including the Moa Room and several incarnations of Ne O – is once again open for business, as Trattoria Luisa. The Luisa in question is Luisa Hansen, who is to Italian restaurants in this city what Donald Trump is to Manhattan real estate. Eponymy is the name of that game: in addition to the new trattoria, there has been a series of "Luisa's on," from Union to Polk to Castro (only the Union Street location still exists), as well as Luisa's Incontro, in the Castro, right next door to her newish, second-floor pizzeria, La Focaccia.

Small irony there: the space next to Trattoria Luisa, on Guerrero, is also a La Focaccia, but it is owned by someone else – proof that Luisa is not omnipotent. Neither is she invincible; some of her restaurants have shuffled off their mortal coils. My favorite among those dearly departed was Pastaio, on 16th Street near Valencia in the days, not so very long ago, when that neighborhood still had room for the odd punk-pasta palace. In its place is Pakwan, which has preserved much of Pastaio's welcoming seediness while serving some of the best and liveliest food in the area.

Those who remember the original Ne O's comically severe whiteout – white walls, white cubes that served as tables and chairs, white crockery – will be relieved to learn that Trattoria Luisa does feature some softening color in its interior decor. (One bright blue wall seems to be left over from the briefly resurrected Ne O.) There's also a fair amount of warmth in the taverna-style wooden furniture, as well as in Luisa's menu of comfortable Italian classics. Neo-Italian? Not really her style.

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A spring planting: Herbivore, the architecturally impressive vegan restaurant in the Mission, opened an outpost on Divisadero near Fell in the Lower Haight in mid March. The word is that, so far, business is quite a bit slower than at the original, despite a breakfast service. And what's up with the "Boycott Herbivore" signs around the new restaurant? Are the omnivores and carnivores organizing?

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Trattorias, cont'd: Christopher Fernandez, who took over the kitchen at Stars when Jeremiah Tower finally let go for good a few years ago, is now the chef at the just-opened D'Asaro in Redwood City. The menu will be "seasonal, simple, rustic Italian." Sounds OK to me, but he and his partners (the Avenir Restaurant Group) better keep an eye peeled for any sign of Luisa Hansen marching south from the city, ready to do battle for pasta.