June 05, 2002


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'Unwearable Art: Clothing in New Media'
Through Sept. 1, Museum of Craft and Folk Art

THE WEARABLE- art movement may challenge established notions of "art" and "craft," but it's fundamentally restricted by the human body. No matter how beautiful or unconventional they are, clothes must be made of flexible materials, with holes for legs and arms and a head. The 13 clothing designers featured in "Unwearable Art: Clothing in New Media," however, refuse to let anything stand in the way of their creativity. You could never actually put on June Schwarcz's electroplated metal pants, for instance, but she's much more interested in their colorful, glossy surface than their practicality or comfort. You could conceivably wear Susan Kingsley's 22-pound lead platform shoes, but it would be a hell of a workout and would more likely turn out to be a harsh lesson in the burden of high fashion (so to speak!). It's a little disappointing that none of the artists really get too crazy – they all assume a human wearer, rather than a three-headed alien or something – but many of them at least choose materials that are not only unconventional but also symbolic in a meaningful way. Most notable is Carol Durham's Fifi Larue a.k.a. Miss Scarlet, a corset made of hog casings. It's a beautiful sculpture, shaped like a perfect hourglass, with a glistening, pearly-white, rock-hard surface. Eskimos make clothing out of gut all the time, but Durham turns the material's natural properties upside down, making what was once stretchy and pliable into something hard and uncomfortable. More than just a reminder of bygone fashions, her corset is a comment on constraints and liberties, including the freedom to cast off all kinds of antiquated ideas about how women should dress and behave.

Tues.-Fri. and Sun., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Fort Mason Center, Bldg. A, Marina at Laguna, S.F. $1-$3 (free Sat., 10 a.m.-noon, and first Wed., 11 a.m.-7 p.m.). (415) 775-0991. (Lindsey Westbrook)