being there
by mat honan

Exploring the Elk Coast

WE COASTED INTO Point Arena on fumes, the car wheezing and gasping for gasoline the last couple of miles, fueled on will and gravity. As we approached the sole gas station in town, my wife and I laughed out loud, unable to believe our luck. Neither of our cell phones worked here along this isolated stretch of highway, and we had all but given up hope of making it back to civilization.

But fate kicked the teeth from our grins. The gas station was closed; we were screwed. I parked the car as it sputtered out and walked up the street to a bar called the Sign of the Whale, where a woman stood outside smoking a cigarette. I asked her where I might find the nearest gas station.

"Well," she said, pausing for a moment and taking a long drag as she looked south along Highway 1. "There's one in Gualala, 12 miles down the road. But it's closed now. There's another one up in Albion, 28 miles north. But it's closed too." This was, apparently, the last word on the subject.

Welcome to the Elk Coast, in Mendocino County along northern California's craggy shoreline, where the locals speak in exact mileage, and fill their gas tanks early.

Along the twisting curves of Highway 1, 150 miles north of San Francisco, the town of Elk has two names. It was founded in the gold rush days of 1852 by sons of prospector-pioneer Caleb Greenwood. They called the village "Greenwood," after their father. By the turn of the 20th century, Greenwood had grown into a logging town with a population of about 1,000 people, supporting 10 hotels and 14 saloons.

But another town in the foothills of the Sierras, also named for the footloose Caleb Greenwood, had the older claim. When it came time for U.S. Postal Service designations, the newer Greenwood on the coast became "Elk." At least as far as the USPS and topographers are concerned. Today, signs all over the village still read "Greenwood," and quite a few of the locals refer to it as such, while maps and road signs prefer the name Elk.

Modern-day Elk is slow and has lost none of its turn-of-the-century charm. There are no cell phone towers. There's no gas station. You can't get a drink after 11 p.m. Although the town has a couple of gift shops, the coast's commercial center is 18 miles north in Mendocino, or "Spendocino" as the locals call it thanks to the mortgage-busting prices at stores and for rooms.

Which is not to say lodging in Elk is cheap. The Greenwood Pier Inn (5928 Highway 1, 707-877-9997) has rates ranging from $150 for a standard room to $300 for the aptly named Cliffhouse, a redwood cabin perched on a bluff above pounding waves. The grounds are a meandering explosion of flowers, fountains, and redwood suites, giving the whole place the look and feel of an upscale hippie commune.

Next door, the Griffin House (5910 S. Highway 1, 707-877-3422) has rooms from $118 to $178. My wife spent hours here serenely floating in the Matson Cottage's tub, which is perched right up against the edge of the cliff next to a large bay window. If there's a tub with a better view in America, we haven't found it yet. A rubber duckie comes with the room.

The best digs in town are at the Elk Cove Inn and Spa (6300 S. Highway 1, 1-800-275-2967), where prices run from $130 for a Victorian room with basic amenities to $350 for a cliff-side suite with a gas fireplace and Jacuzzi tub. What's more, it has a full-service day spa on the premises.

Although you don't come to Elk for the dining, you can get a great meal here at any of the three restaurants in town. The Greenwood Pier Cafe has top-notch dining at reasonable prices (entrées $15 to $20), with fresh seafood, great steaks, and local wines and produce. The lettuce for the salads is grown on the property. Down the road a bit, in a corner of the century-old Elk Garage, Queenie's serves diner-style grub, northern California style, natch. You can watch road-weary travelers and long-haul cyclers stop in all day long for the best breakfast on Highway 1.

The best meals in town, however, are found at Bridget Dolan's Pub and Dinner House, which has traditional pub fare, such as fish-and-chips and bangers and mash, as well as a few concessions to California cuisine. You can also get a good pint here, but be prepared: closing time comes early. Reservations are recommended for those planning on dining on the weekend.

If you're looking for an excuse to get away, Aug. 23 is the annual Great Day in Elk celebration. There's a parade at noon and a dance in the evening at the Greenwood community center, as well as music, a raffle, a crafts fair, and a greased pole for all your climbing needs. If you do decide to go, make sure you fill up in Point Arena; it's a long walk to Mendocino.

Mat Honan is a writer who lives in San Francisco.