Cheap Eats
by Dan Leone
Caribbophilia
MY LITTLEST LITTLE sister Orange Pop lives in Cleveland. She's
a theater person, technically speaking, stage lighting being her area
of expertise. You gotta figure she's good at what she does, if for no
other reason than because she's my sister.
Well, she's been off-seasoning out here in San Francisco, and unless
someone blindsides her with some kind of theatrical gig, odds are she'll
be riding off into the sunrise come fall, lighting up Lake Erie. Some
living.
But the point I wanted to make was that in however many years she's
been living in Cleveland ($400 2BR apt. btw), she's never once been
to the Jake to see the Indians play ... which, what's the point of living
in Cleveland, $400 2BR apts. notwithstanding?
So recently when the Tribe swung through Oakland (and swung through
Oakland pitching, I might add), I took her to a couple of those games.
After one of them we BART-hopped back to the city via Happy Day Caribbean
and Nigerian Kitchen, on Telegraph at 17th Street in Oakland.
You know I'm a Caribbophile, right? Mostly it's the music that floats
me bowl. Boat. And I don't mean reggae so much as calypso, but given
a choice between reggae and, say, rock ... gimme reggae.
It's a hard place to write about, Happy Day, for one thing because
it wasn't such a happy day, and I don't only mean for Indians fans.
There was something wrong with the world. Don't know what it was, exactly,
but the two folks working there looked like they had just about had
it. The guy at the end of the counter was facedown into his folded arms
on a pile of mail, and the woman dishing up our Styrofoam containers
of food seemed similarly somniferous. I'm not knocking them. I myself
was feeling several sails short of a sailboat all day that day. I'd
fallen asleep on Muni on the way to BART, missed my stop, and then fell
asleep again on BART and would have missed the Coliseum if Orange Pop
hadn't've been there to shake me. I nodded off once or twice during
the game, too a first for me. There was just something about
the day, I'm telling you. Something that no amount of hot dogs or sausages
and garlic fries, not to mention jerk chicken over rice and beans, spinach,
and potatoes, was going to fix. Even just writing about it makes me
need a nap.
If you'll excuse me, please, for 20 minutes ...
Four hours later: Where was I? Happy Day, formerly Ma's Caribbean
Cuisine and Roti, just a teeny tiny speck of a place, mostly geared
toward takeout. There is a little counter with four or five or six stools
in the back, and that's where me and Orange Pop sat. They didn't have
any orange pop, so Orange Pop had to order a root beer, except that
I'd already asked for a root beer, and they only had one of them, turns
out, so then she had to drink Dr. Pepper, poor kid.
For food, for her, there was "the vegetarian choice," which
is all vegetarians deserve, you ask me, is just one choice. This one
was rice, beans, spinach same as what comes with my jerk chicken
meal, but also curry potatoes and fried plantains. Seven bucks. Same
as the jerk chicken.
The chicken was pretty good and very spicy. Very, very spicy. I needed
all my spinach and rice and a lot of Orange Pop's plantains to offset
the heat. I needed root beer. I needed water. I needed so many things,
and the kick of it was that I was never really all that hungry to start
with, so that afterwards I felt like, without vigilance, everything
might just come dribbling out my nose. I was topped off.
Next time I might try some of the other fun-sounding stuff, like Nigerian-style
pepper soup, pounded yam, or fried stew. Fried stew.
Fried stew.
Roti. Roti are like burritos. At least they look like burritos, big
square ones full of a lot of the same stuff: curry potatoes, spinach,
and meat. Besides chicken they have goat, beef, and lamb.
Now, I personally wouldn't call none of this stuff "cuisine,"
seeing as how it all seems to be preprepared and sitting around in pots,
as opposed to made-to-order. And maybe that's why they went from being
Ma's blah blah blah Cuisine to Happy Day blah blah blah Kitchen. You
know me: I like kitchens better than cuisines anyway. That's comfort
food, when it comes out of a kitchen, when it comes out of a pot on
the stove. That's stewed stuff. Fried and stewed. Comfort food. Tucks
you in, in other words; sings you to sleep. As it says in the window:
Enjoy you meal!
Happy Day Caribbean and Nigerian Kitchen. 1711 Telegraph
(at 17th St.), Oakl. (510) 444-7684. Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Takeout
available. No alcohol. Credit cards not accepted. Wheelchair accessible.
Dan Leone is the author of Eat This, San Francisco (Sasquatch
Books), a collection of Cheap Eats restaurant reviews, and The Meaning
of Lunch (Mammoth Books).