THE DRIVE TO the Tassajara Mountain Zen Center offers visitors a perfect allegory for the type of vacation they're about to experience – as well as a first lesson in Buddhism: marked by slippery slopes and hairpin turns, the path to enlightenment can be hellish and nerve-wracking.

Depending on the season (and how much of the road the seasonal rains have washed away), it can take well over an hour to cover the last 14 miles to the Monterey County monastery and retreat, which is owned and operated by the San Francisco Zen Center. Deep potholes, enormous boulders that jut out into the narrow road, a petrifyingly steep drop-off, and the likelihood of having to back up if a car should be coming in the opposite direction – all these elements suggest that reincarnation could be around the next bend if you're riding in anything less rugged than a four-wheel-drive vehicle. If you're a nervous passenger on the road of life, you must find strength in your ability to face these challenges head-on and overcome them. Or if you're like me, you should bring lots and lots of Valium. A third option is to surrender yourself completely and pay the $35 to be shuttled in by the Zen Center van. However you work through the struggle of the journey, though, you'll be deeply rewarded for your efforts. The place is beautiful.

The Tassajara Mountain Zen Center, known to insiders as Zenshin-ji (Japanese for "Zen mind temple"), was the first Soto Zen monastery established outside of Asia. The brainchild of Buddhist teacher Suzuki Roshi and his followers at the San Francisco Zen Center in 1966, Tassajara is 27 miles inland from Big Sur in the Ventana Wilderness, and its guest season runs May through August. Encompassing the feeling of both resort and campground (though no camping is allowed), the center is nestled among seemingly endless redwoods above Tassajara Creek. Only the kitchen and front office have electricity; ubiquitous kerosene lamps add a rustic charm. Modest but modern architecture; Asian-inspired lanterns, walkways, and bridges; and outdoor furniture carved from tree trunks are the finest that hippie engineering has to offer.

Many visitors come to Tassajara having had little or no experience with Zen Buddhism. Daily introductory workshops in the zendo, or temple – located in the heart of the Tassajara campus – show some of the basic practices and etiquette of meditation, and guests are welcome to participate in selected services and meditation sessions. Numerous work programs allow more-advanced students of Buddhism to "chop wood, carry water" to pay for their continuing education.

Guests looking for other ways to fill their days can read, relax, explore hiking trails that lead to waterfalls along the creek, or make use of the boccie court. One of the center's main draws is access to the mineral hot springs bathhouse and swimming pool, a stunning, airy facility with hot tubs, warm tubs, private tubs (sex segregated), and best off all, an invigorating cold plunge that plants your clothing-optional body directly in the cool waters of the creek.

Although any stay is a bit of a splurge, there are accommodation options for most budgets, and room prices include access to all facilities and meals. The rooms come with either a shared or private bath and feature extremely warm and comfy bedding, plenty of fresh air and sunlight, and romantic kerosene lighting. Highlights include the stone rooms, the tatami mat rooms, and the yurts, ranging from $105 to $150 a person; women's and men's dorms are also available, starting at $80 a night.

Last but certainly not least, the food cannot go without mentioning. All guests are provided with three luxurious vegetarian meals a day, produced in part with produce grown on the Zen Center's farm in Mill Valley. Many visitors dress up for dinner and bring their own wine. Consider waking to gingerbread pancakes with fresh-fruit compote; helping yourself to homemade bread, soup, and salad for lunch; and lingering over a dinner of grilled marinated tofu, roasted vegetables in a satay peanut sauce, and the best crème brûlée you've ever had.

A trip to Tassajara is well worth the effort, but keep in mind that spaces during the guest season fill up quickly. Reserve well in advance.

How to do it

Registration dates for the 2004 guest season will be announced in February; typically mail-order reservations begin in March, telephone reservations in April. For more information go to www.sfzc.org.