Being There
by gary singh
Surreal S.J.
THE FEDERAL REALITY Investment Trust knew what it was doing
when it designed Santana Row in San Jose. The posh city within a city,
which sprang to life late in 2002, turned out to be just what many Silicon
Valley types were looking for: a grand-scale European promenade where
the rich and beautiful could live, stroll, devour sushi, or shop for
$500 sweaters. In the same way that Las Vegas is a manufactured adult
Disneyland plopped down in the middle of a desert, Santana Row is a
contrived urban epicenter plopped down in the suburban sprawl of Silicon
Valley. It is the Las Vegas of San Jose.
Situated on a 40-acre plot at the corner of Stevens Creek and Winchester
Boulevards, Santana Row is turning into one of San Jose's most successful
commercial endeavors in its 226-year history. FRIT did away with the
plot's former inhabitant a one-story, dilapidated shopping center
called Town and Country Village and went for a trilevel urban
oasis with upscale dwellings, high-end retail, and gourmet eateries.
To understand how surreal Santana Row is, look across Winchester at
a microcosm of what San Jose has to offer in the way of commerce and
culture: the Winchester Mystery House, an ancient theater complex, and
a locally owned coffee shop. Now turn around and gaze on Santana Row.
It looks like it dropped from the sky, and spending time there is a
bit like being transported into another dimension: an artificial, aristocratic,
Disneyland escape from the bedroom communities that dominate the local
landscape. We're not in San Jose anymore, Toto.
Above the ground-level shops are two stories of luxury lofts
and apartments; elegant French balconies overlook the strip. Combining
old European architecture with the cookie-cutter approach to many planned
communities, the lofts' colorful façades exemplify quintessential
Vegas artificiality. Down on the streets, there's plenty to keep a curious
visitor occupied. Foodwise, Straits Cafe (333 Santana Row, Ste.
1100, San Jose. 408-246-6320) is jammed on Friday and Saturday nights.
Hipsters rub elbows over eclectic pan-Asian fare, while smoky jazz acts
occupy one corner of the café. Those in search of a quiet, intimate
dining experience, keep walking. The thunderous roar of the place can
be deafening at times. From Straits, it's only a short stroll through
the oak trees on the brick-lined central promenade to Yankee Pier
(378 Santana Row, Ste. 1100, San Jose. 408-244-1244). Chef Bradley Ogden's
first adventure in Silicon Valley, Yankee Pier is fashioned after a
New England seafood house, and so, naturally, there's a 10-foot-tall
lighthouse in the middle of the bar.
If you're still game, continue your leisurely stroll down the row for
some gallery-hopping. The Art of Peter Max Gallery (334 Santana
Row, Ste. 1035, San Jose. 408-615-1590) is the first gallery anywhere
to showcase all-original works by the legendary artist. Also worth a
visit is Red Ink Studios (356 Santana Row, Ste. 2000, San Jose),
the impermanent home of the guerrilla art movement of the same name.
The movement gets permission to temporarily inhabit unleased properties
and then leaves artwork behind in the process. The work currently on
display is heavily dependent on recycled motorcycle parts.
That last exhibit stands out like a sore thumb on Santana Row, where
every other retailer is upscale with a capital U from
the Ecco shoe store to leather-goods store Mulholland San Francisco.
And while Silicon Valley is home to some pretty wealthy folk and the
row has proved popular, one has to wonder if all these stores are going
to last. Many are having 70-percent-off blowout sales already. Could
it be developers overestimated the presence of Melrose wannabes in the
South Bay?
One thing they probably didn't overestimate is the highly developed
tech savvy of most Silicon Valley residents. So it's impressive but
no surprise that Hewlett Packard's Next Generation Network Practice
Group installed a high-speed LAN tying all of Santana Row together.
While you're sitting at the outdoor chess tables on the central promenade,
you can access the LAN by 802.11b wireless technology and make the evening's
dinner reservation at a restaurant 100 feet away. Inside the opulent
Hotel Valencia (355 Santana Row, San Jose. 408-551-0010), every
room has a computer with a high-speed connection. If you don't want
to leave your room, you can send pages to the printer at the front desk
and have them delivered to you. Even the pool offers wireless access.
When all is said and done, Santana Row is worth a visit just for the
spectacle. What's left at the end is the monolithic fog of Stevens Creek
traffic as you make your way back to reality.
If you go
Directions From San Francisco or the peninsula, take 280 South
to San Jose and exit at Winchester Boulevard. Turn left on Moorpark
Avenue, then left on Winchester. From the East Bay, take 880 South to
San Jose. Exit at West San Carlos Street/Stevens Creek Boulevard. Turn
left on Santana Row. There's unlimited free parking.
Santana Row headquarters 355 Santana Row, Ste. 2000, San
Jose. (408) 551-4600, www.santanarow.com,
email here, .