Cheap Eats
By Dan Leone
A
spring in his step
YOU SEE DIFFERENT things in the Tenderloin than in Noe Valley.
Smells different, different looks on different-looking people's faces.
Sounds a lot different. Instead of babies, dogs, and deck construction,
you hear crazy people saying crazy things, like, "What the hell
happened to your face?" I think I vowed a while back to stop Noe
Valley bashing, so I'll try not to say which neighborhood I prefer to
walk around in. (Hint: the Tenderloin.)
It was a beautiful day. Last week you remember. One of those
summery springlike late-winter West Coast wonderland days, with blue
skies and actual heat, when colors look more colorful than usual and
smells smell even smellier. I had to pick up some tax forms, but first
things first, meaning: eats. The Tenderloin is one of my favorite neighborhoods
to eat in. I was hungry, but not crazy hungry, so there was plenty of
time to stop and smell the urine.
I wandered up Leavenworth to O'Farrell and then I wandered down O'Farrell
toward Jones. There was a sorry, skeletal bedspring in the middle of
the sidewalk, entirely unstuffed, if it had ever had any stuffing to
it. It was all metal, a rectangular framework filled with rows and columns
of coiled wire. The old lady walking in front of me stopped to test
it with her foot, pushing down gently on the cornermost spring, and
then moved on.
Now there's a woman who knows how to live life, I thought. I don't
know what she was thinking, but it seemed like the right thing to think,
so when I came to the bedspring, I did what she did. The difference
being that my foot got caught. It slipped off the slick metal and slid
down in between coils, which wedged around my ankle like a really good,
solid, heavy-duty, well-researched, impeccably designed, all-purpose,
American-made Cheap Eats Guy trap.
I couldn't get out. I tried taking off my shoe, but I couldn't even
get my shoe off. It was in there. I tried pulling the coils apart with
my hands, and I was strong enough to make them move some, but there
were four of them. I was four-cornered in, and I could only do anything
about two springs at a time, while the other two held me all the tighter.
I was good and gotten.
Tell you something about me: I don't like to draw attention to myself.
I'm not a wacky or wild and crazy guy. If you imagined otherwise, you
must only know me through my writing. But the side of me I put down
on paper is not the side of me that lives and breathes and walks around
in the Tenderloin. In real life, I prefer not to be noticed which
is a lot to ask when you're wearing a five-by-six-foot bedspring on
a city sidewalk around lunchtime.
And this is what I love about the Tenderloin. In many other neighborhoods,
in my particular predicament, I would have drawn a crowd. Almost certainly,
someone would have called the fire department, if not the newspaper.
In the Tenderloin, I was possible to ignore. You see things like this,
in neighborhoods like this. Far, far worse. And so you learn not to
see. It's sad, but now that I was the spectacle instead of the ignorer,
stepping over the homeless man in a twist of blankets one block back,
I was thankful for the urban human capacity not to notice.
Neither the one-inch blade nor the little nail-trimming scissors on
my key-chain pocketknife were kind enough to cut through metal, so I
was going to have do like those rock climbers and car accident victims
you hear about. I was going to have to saw off my foot at the ankle.
Which, whether I worked with the blade or the scissors, was going to
require a lot of time and blood. So, first things being first, as I
already said: lunch!
The closest place was one of those Laundromat cafes, Joey's. I might
have eaten there anyway, because the sign said: Ice Cream. Espresso.
Sausage. I liked that, even though I really only love one of those three
things. Sausage, of course.
So I dragged my new shoe a hundred feet or so down the street and hollered
in my order from the sidewalk. I know that's rude, but I didn't think
I could fit through the door without breaking or at least severely spraining
my ankle, and I feared the swelling would only make my afternoon's work
more tedious.
They were kind enough to bring me my sausage, a hot Italian one on
a roll with onions, tomato, and lettuce ($3.50). And it came with a
free small soda!
Mitchell's ice cream, Internet, and coffee all while you do
your laundry! Or, as the case may be, while you stand outside with a
bedspring wrapped around your ankle, trying to act casual.
Joey's. 517 O'Farrell (at Jones), S.F. (415) 567-4401. Daily:
6 a.m.-9 p.m. Takeout available. No alcohol. Credit cards not accepted.
Wheelchair accessible.
Dan Leone is the author of Eat This, San Francisco (Sasquatch
Books), a collection of Cheap Eats restaurant reviews, and The Meaning
of Lunch (Mammoth Books).