House style
San Francisco clothing retailers that sell their own designs.

By Tali Woodward

CLOTHES SHOPPING, never the noblest of pursuits, is even harder to stomach now that almost every piece of mass-produced clothing is assembled by enslaved 12-year-olds in some dusty, windowless sweatshop in a underdeveloped country.

However, there is one fun, inspiring, and exceedingly stylish way to shop with a lighter heart: patronize places shops owned by local designers. The San Francisco stores listed below sell clothing made by one or more of the shop owners – meaning the designers are getting a fair deal, as well as the opportunity to pursue their creative vision indefinitely. Not to mention the fact that the fashion options are invariably more original than anything you'll find at a chain store.

The businesses listed sell ready-to-wear adult fashions; some do commissioned work as well. Unless otherwise noted, the bulk of the clothing is for women.

Production house A Motion Studio churns out samples for the fashion industry, but owner Roger Alan also helps emerging designers dream up, construct, and market their work. From the in-house retail line to custom orders to the quarterly fashion shows, this is independent fashion on a new scale. 440 Brannan, S.F. (415) 957-1411, www.amotionstudio.com.

Chances are you've seen the textured, easy-to-care-for clothes designed by the owner and namesake of Babette, who's been making clothes in the Bay Area for 25 years. Babette's downtown store, where you can find her trademark pleated raincoat, opened in October. 361 Sutter, S.F. (415) 837-1442, www.babettesf.com.

When you're frustrated by most designers' seeming inability to cut cleanly shaped clothes in amazing fabrics, it's time to head to Dema. Owner Dema Grim, who cut her teeth in the New York fashion world, makes only a handful of each floral dress, A-line skirt, or fitted jacket, so there's little risk of crossing paths with another person in the exact same outfit. Grim also sells accessories by other local stars. 1038 Valencia, S.F. (415) 206-0500, www.godemago.com.

Although you might guess the clothes at HRM Boutique were created by a single, modernist mind, two designers share this minimalist Valencia Street space. Bob Scales's no-nonsense men's clothes and Susan Hengst's unique designs for women seem to celebrate the quality of the fabric. 924 Valencia, S.F. (415) 642-0841, www.hrmclothing.com.

Two designers opened Knitz and Leather about 15 years ago to display their high-end handcrafted clothing and accessories. One of the women knits one-of-a-kind sweaters, skirts, scarves, and shawls; the other makes leather jackets, bags, and shoes. They also sell jewelry and hand-dyed silk scarves made locally. 1429 Grant, S.F. (415) 391-3480.

Kweejibo's Cindy Cho has been crafting casual, stylish clothes for men since 1992. All the wares here – and the inventory's heavy on the shirts – are made in Oakland. 1580 Haight, S.F. (415) 552-3555, www.kweejibo.com.

Blending Scandinavian and Japanese influences, Lotta Jansdotter creates simple, organic designs carried at high-end boutiques across the country. At her local studio-shop, you can buy T-shirts and other printed clothing, as well as shoulder bags, table linens, and ceramics. 864 Post, S.F. (415) 409-1457, www.jansdotter.com.

Manifesto offers adorable '40s-inspired dresses and other attire worthy of a night out. Most clothing is designed in the back room by the two owners and is cut with the knowledge that most women have hips and many also have breasts. Manifesto also sells accessories and men's clothing. 514 Octavia, S.F. (415) 431-4778, www.manifestoclothing.com.

Best known for hand-knit sweaters made in the traditional styles of her homeland, Ireland, Margaret O'Leary now makes sportswear and men's clothes too, all handcrafted at her 90-employee Potrero Hill studio. 2400 Fillmore, S.F. (415) 771-9982; 1 Claude Lane, S.F. (415) 391-1010, www.margaretoleary.com.

Designing in San Francisco for more than a decade, Martha Egan has been selling vividly colored printed clothing out of her North Beach shop for six years. She makes shirts, jackets, scarves, and bags for women and predominately shirts for men. 1 Columbus, S.F. (415) 397-5451, www.marthaegan.com.

With her signature cropped pants and fitted bomber jackets – many adorned with details like tulip-shaped pockets and adorable little buttons – Terri Olson of Minnie Wilde may be the city's favorite cutting-edge designer. The small, blue-floored boutique also carries clothing by other independent, retro-minded style mavens. 529 Laguna, S.F. (415) 863-9453, www.minniewilde.com.

In its tiny little storefront space, Needles and Pens, partly owned by Bay Guardian layout designer Andrew Scott, offers some of the most original handcrafted T-shirts and updated thrift-store treasures you're liable to find in San Francisco. There's also an extensive zine selection, an art gallery, and plenty of patches, stationery, and accessories. Where else can you pick up a wallet made of duct tape and a wristband/beer cozy? 483 14th St., S.F. (415) 255-1534, www.needles-pens.com.

The three designers behind the Nisa line have been selling to upscale shops like Fred Segal and Villains for years. They opened their small outlet about a year ago, selling clothes they describe as "eclectic urban" at a steep discount. 3610 19th St., S.F. (415) 865-0969, www.nisasf.com.

The Mission District's best new clothing shop for a bargain, Pink Stripes is just rolling out its own line of flirty dresses and tops created by owners Tricia Santa Ines and Desiree Aquino. They also sell dozens of adorable American Apparel printed tees and even cake and chocolate. 1003 Guerrero, S.F. (415) 642-4668, www.pinkstripessf.com.

Jennifer Summers got her start designing for club kids in the mid 1990s. She opened Sugarpuss for her eponymous clothing and lingerie lines in mid 2001. 248 Fillmore, S.F. (415) 861-7877, www.sugarpussclothing.com.

The self-titled HQ of local designer Sunhee Moon, esteemed for her spare and elegant locally made wardrobe essentials, is moving from the Lower Haight to the Mission at the beginning of April. The shop also carries jewelry made by other arty San Franciscans. 3167 16th St., S.F. (415) 355-1800, www.sunheemoon.com.

One-of-a-kind clothing from 35 independent designers is jammed into tiny Polk Gulch shop Venus Superstar – alongside the wildly popular clothing and jewelry made by owner Rebecca Vandersteen (think bleached blazers, waterfall earrings, and leather cuff bracelets). There's a rock-star edge to many of the new and rehabbed items – and a well-edited selection of vintage clothing virtually guaranteed to enrapture any thrift-store hound. 1112 Sutter, S.F. (415) 749-1978, www.venus-superstar.com.