Afternoon delight
Where to make a meal out of teatime.

By Laura Paskell-Brown

FROM THE OPULENT salons of its Nob Hill hotels to the cushioned couches of its tiny tea shops, San Francisco is full of places to take tea – by which we mean the light afternoon meal made famous by the Brits, not a cup of Lipton's. In the following list of tea-serving establishments, unless otherwise specified, the term signifies a selection of scones, pastries, sandwiches, and cookies and a nice pot of tea; some also offer champagne and other delights if you're willing to open your wallet a bit further. Many places require reservations; call for more information. Now sit up straight, keep your elbows off the table, and settle in for the splendid ritual that is afternoon tea.

Sup and snack while basking in the luxury of the Fairmont Hotel, which serves tea under the ornate domes and chandeliers of its Laurel Court restaurant. There are five meal choices and an à la carte menu. Daily, 2:30-4:30 p.m., 950 Mason, S.F. $25. (415) 772-5260.

Munch your way through scones, sandwiches, and cookies under the watchful eyes of past British monarchs in the King George Hotel's Windsor Tearoom. The Teddy Bear Tea (10 and under) includes the usual goodies plus a teddy bear and a "special surprise." Sat.-Sun., 2-5 p.m. (parties of four or more can reserve for any day of the week), 334 Mason, S.F. $8-$18. (415) 781-5050, www.kinggeorge.com/dining.html.

There's no stiff upper lip at Lovejoy's Tea Room, a charmingly cozy living room cum tea shop in Noe Valley. Fittingly, the place is also a tea shop cum antique shop (Lovejoy was a British TV drama about a dashing but dastardly antique dealer), so if you like your teacup, you may be able to take it home. Wed.-Sun., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. (Fri. until 7 p.m.), 1351 Church, S.F. $8.95-$18.95. (415) 648-5895.

Could it get any cuter than the Palace Hotel's Prince and Princess Tea? Served in the hotel's Garden Court to those 10 and under, it includes a crown, a lollipop "scepter," and enough food to have you throwing up all over your nice new frock. Adults are also welcome and have options ranging from the basic meal to an "exclusive tea for two" that comes with a half bottle of Pommery Champagne. Sat., 2-4 p.m., 2 New Montgomery, S.F. $22-$85. (415) 546-5089, www.gardencourt-restaurant.com.

The Renaissance Stanford Court Hotel serves a high tea and a "Court Tea" (the latter adds Mumm Cuvée to the mix) and asks that you make (and if need be, cancel) reservations two days in advance. Daily, 3-5 p.m., 905 California, S.F. $25-$35. (415) 989-1910.

Taking tea at the Ritz has been a pastime of British high society since the days of Queen Vicky. Nowadays Yanks have somewhere incredibly posh of their own to do it. It doesn't get any more civilized than this. Mon.-Fri., 2:30-4:30 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 1-4:30 p.m., 600 Stockton, S.F. $29-$41. (415) 773-6198, www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/san_francisco.

A circular dining room beneath Neiman Marcus's famous glass-domed rotunda, the Rotunda Restaurant is certainly stylish. There's a champagne option ($29) as well as a selection of ports and sherries. Daily, 2:30-5 p.m., 150 Stockton, S.F. $19-$29. (415) 362-4777, www.rotundarestaurant.com.

Tea comes Russian style at Samovar Tea Lounge. High tea includes Russian black tea – served, naturally, from a samovar – and sandwiches filled with things like smoked ham, Branston pickle, and smoked salmon. Mon.-Fri., 3-6 p.m., 498 Sanchez, S.F. From $11. (415) 626-4700, www.samovartea.com.

You'll find a warm and cozy tea in a warm and cozy setting at Secret Garden Tea House. Tues.-Sat., noon-6 p.m.; Sun., noon-5:30 p.m., 721 Lincoln Way, S.F. $10.95-$18.95. (415) 566-8834, www.secretgardenteahouse.com.