FOR SCINTILLATING VIEWS and a breath of fresh air, there's no need for San Franciscans to trek to the Marin Headlands or Mt. Diablo. While both make for a stunningly gorgeous day trip, we have a lovely walking tour right in our own backyard that's Muni-accessible and too often overlooked. The stretch of the Coastal Trail between the Sutro Baths and Lincoln Park, at San Francisco's sharpest northwest corner, offers amazing views, just the right amount of exercise for a Sunday, and plenty to see along the way.

Normally a quick stop at the Cliff House would be in order, but right now there's not much happening other than renovation work, so head down to the nearby Sutro Bath ruins, where you can wander around and contemplate how completely cool it must have been to slip into your bathing costume and take the waters inside a giant seaside greenhouse. Leave enough time to walk through the cave tunnel on the northern end that leads out to the cliffs.

Next, ascend inland to the parking lot off Merrie Way. (If time permits you can detour over to Sutro Park across the highway, former residence of Aldolph Sutro, former S.F. mayor and all-around rich guy.) Catch your breath while gazing at Seal Rock (which may or may not live up to its name, depending on the season), the craggy cliffs, the ruins of the baths, and the viscous Pacific at your feet. Feel dominating and strong and on top of the world. And now, onward.

Look for a well-worn trail that follows the water and, for that very reason, is known as the Coastal Trail. While today's hike will cover only a small section (as far as Land's End), know that it is mighty and long, and hopefully getting longer: while legal and environmental obstacles have slowed the process, hikers, activists, and parks organizations are working to expand this trail, connecting it to other coastal trails the entire length of the state and making it possible to walk or bike from Mexico to Oregon (www.californiacoastaltrail.info).

Within San Francisco the trail continues north to the Golden Gate Bridge (if you don't mind scaling some rocks at China Beach), then swoops easterly through the bay side past Crissy Field and a lovely view of the Palace of Fine Arts. Here you're reduced to sidewalk and roads for a small stretch, but if you persevere, you'll find yourself at Fort Mason, the Maritime Museum, and should you choose it, Ghirardelli Square.

For now, rejoice in the fact that by walking this little stretch of dirt path, you could well be walking through a part of history in the making. The lazy will also be happy to know that today's traipse is nearly flat, not too strenuous, and less than a couple miles long round-trip.

After you've walked about a quarter mile past the ruins, the Fort Miley parking lot will come into view, above on the right. There are a few benches there, and likely some parked cars. The view is worth the climb, if you feel like making it, but it's not a must-see. In every way but one, it's just a parking lot. The one distinction: late at night, especially on weekends, it's dark enough and remote enough to attract teenagers eager to smoke, drink, and make out. If San Francisco didn't already have an Inspiration Point, Fort Miley would be it.

Getting back to the business at hand, the hiking conditions on the trail are perfect: a good-size dirt path without too many rocks and, unless it's been raining, no deep mud or water to traverse. You'll likely share the trail with others, but it won't feel overly crowded. And the view is worth every ounce of effort: You're mere feet from death's edge, overlooking cliffs, clouds, and barges and tankers coming into our port of call. You're high enough that it's breezy, but not chilling. The Golden Gate Bridge draws closer as you walk toward the mouth of the bay. The tall trees and spiny low brush contrast with the terra cotta cliffs and rocks, and large birds circle overhead, helping themselves to the seafood buffet in the waters beneath them.

Follow this trail and let the mind wander. Eventually you'll find yourself at the Palace of the Legion of Honor, a picture-perfect wink (literally: a bride or two is usually being photographed out front) to the Napoleonic Legion of Honor in Paris. Built by the Spreckels family to honor the soldiers of World War I, it's a museum, but its expansive pillars and Roman architecture render the outside an exhibit unto itself. Wander the grounds of Lincoln Park around the museum and on the golf course, and recall the Jackass episode in which golfers were taunted with bullhorns.