THERE'S A GREAT joke in the vegan cooking zine Don't Have a Cow (more about vegan zines in an future column): "How many vegetarians does it take to screw in a lightbulb?" "I don't know, but where do you get your protein?"

Most of us vegetarians here in the Bay Area are way past worrying about our protein intake (unless we're on some crazy vegan version of the Atkins diet). But our friends and loved ones may still be inquiring if our rejection of animal protein has caused us to start bleeding from the gums yet.

Perhaps those nonbelievers could be swayed by statistics. According to a recent New Yorker article, Americans have stopped growing taller from generation to generation, while the average height of northern Europeans continues to increase. The article points to social inequality in the United States and to socialized medicine and other advancements in northern Europe as the probable causes of this difference, but I would also like to point out that northern Europe is a heck of a lot more vegetarian-friendly than the United States. The influence of the Green Party and the organic food movement has made that part of the world much more conscious of the connection between food and the environment. Switzerland even has a rapidly expanding vegetarian fast-food chain called Tibits.

Now, I'm not saying the reason northern Europeans are getting taller on average is because more of them are vegetarians; I'm just pointing out that tons of protein isn't necessarily the route to growing big and strong.

And yet.... Lately I've been having the most out-of-control craving for the protein in nut butters. I go to bed dreaming of peanut butter, wake up thinking about it. I furtively surf the Web for peanut butter sites. I eat it every which way – peanut butter and raisin sandwiches, Trader Joe's deliciously affordable organic raw almond butter on a whole-wheat tortilla with red peppers and cucumbers, cashew butter on an apple.

The weird thing is that I never liked peanut butter when I was a child (and wasn't a vegetarian, parenthetically). I began to eat it in earnest when I was pregnant. This leads me to believe I'm craving the protein.

Protein cravings or not, I think the real reason I've been on a nut-butter jag lately is because I've discovered the amazing peanut butters from Peanut Butter and Co. PB&C is a sandwich shop in New York City, but it packages its handmade peanut butter to sell across the country. Available locally at Yum (1750 Market, S.F. 415-626-9866) and Whole Foods Market (various Bay Area locations), which has a more limited range of flavors than Yum, PB&C's butters come in flavors like White Chocolate Wonderful, Cinnamon Raisin Swirl, The Heat Is On, and my favorite, Dark Chocolate Dreams.

Although not made with organic peanuts, these could be considered artisanal peanut butters. They are emulsified with palm oil rather than partially hydrogenated soybean oil and are nicely grainier than your average jar of Skippy. The dark chocolate variety is rich, sweet, and complex. The Heat Is On is savory, spicy-hot, and addictive. Endearingly, the jars have a "Certified Vegan" logo on them. While my favorite thing to do with these is eat them straight from the jar with a spoon, more-refined people will enjoy this recipe from PB&C's Web site: www.ilovepeanutbutter.com.

Vegetarian masaman curry (serves 4)

1 large yellow onion

3 cloves garlic

2 Tbs peanut oil (corn or canola oil will work too)14 oz (1 container) extra-firm tofu

2 cups vegetable stock

14 oz (1 can) light coconut milk

1/2 cup of Peanut Butter and Co. The Heat Is On peanut butter

1/2 teaspoon finely ground sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 medium-size potatoes

4 medium-size carrots

1 cup frozen peas

3 Tbs chopped fresh basil

Chop the onion and mince the garlic, cut the tofu into one-inch cubes, and in a large skillet, sauté over a medium flame with the peanut oil until the tofu is slightly browned, the onions and garlic have lost most of their color, and any liquid in the pan is slightly sweet.

While the tofu, onions, and garlic are cooking, combine the vegetable stock and coconut milk in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the peanut butter, salt, and pepper and stir until well incorporated.