DEAR DAME EVELYN ,

I seem to be schizophrenic about beets. Last month I was sitting in a restaurant and I saw a plate of food go by – to another table – laden with beautiful beets. They were ruby and gold and looked like jewels. Gorgeous. But I can't stand to eat them! They are kind of gummy-tough, and they don't have much flavor. I suppose I should just give up on them; we all have foods we don't like, right? For little or no reason? I don't know why I am having such trouble with this. I am writing because I got some beets in my weekly produce box, and now I don't know what to do with them. I am paralyzed, unable to cook them or get rid of them. I am hoping that you will take my hand and lead me to a better place.

Beaten?

Sweetest, Dame Evelyn is not a psychiatrist – nor does she play one on TV – but she does know a conflict when she sees one. She suspects, in this case, some childhood trauma, some unsavory encounter with beets, perhaps from a can. It is true that beets can be uncooperative. On the other hand, they can also be made to behave; all you need is a firm hand – and a grater. Clean the beets, trim their ends (stem and root), and peel them with a vegetable peeler. Then grate them on the coarse plate of your grater; four or five beets makes a nice little pile. Sauté the grated beets in a heavy pan with several tablespoons of good, tasty extra-virgin olive oil and some crushed garlic – or, better yet, a few stalks of chopped green garlic. Dame Evelyn likes to add a good pinch of salt at the start of the cooking; it brings out the flavor, don't you know. And add a liberal sprinkling of pepper at the end, which shouldn't be more than five to seven minutes in arriving. The result will be a lovely rose-colored hash that can be served as a side dish or used as a bed for, say, grilled halibut. And no one need ever know they are eating beets!

Unbeatably,

E. G.-S.