Cheap Eats
By Dan Leone
Oh!
ONE OF THE dumbest things I've ever heard is "If I had
it all to do over again, I wouldn't change a thing." You talk about
your lack of imagination to say nothing of hygiene. Look, I love
my life. I haven't been exactly all the way on top of my game lately,
but still I think I'm generally as happy if not happier than the next
guy. I've done a lot of Things, including laundry, love, learning, and
looking at ants. Once I jumped out of an airplane.
I hit one home run. I've pitched out of jams, moved runners over ...
Two books, four records, I made a steel drum, and I'm still alive, still
playing ball, music, still doing the things that I love to do. All is
well, in other words, and you know what? If I had it all to do over,
I would change every ... single ... thing.
If the butterfly wing-flap theory flies, they would all be moot points
after the first decision I made (to cry, probably, or to stop crying)
set the wind blowing a whole different way. However, for the sake of
speculation: I'm a writer; I'd be a truck driver. (Not that it'd make
a lick of difference to you, because, being a Saints fan instead of
Niners, I never would have moved to San Francisco.)
Coffee? Cream and sugar.
Bacon instead of sausage. Or maybe I'd be a vegetarian. One thing
I'd still hate mayonnaise. That's biological, like ethnicity, gender,
and Ohio. But you get the picture. Why do anything at all the same way
twice?
CHOIR OF ANGELS: Because what if you got it right the first time?
If I got it right the first time, I'd hope to get it wrong the second,
and vice versa. Actually, the purpose of life is not getting it right.
The purpose of life is getting it, period, in the sense of witnessing,
you know, seeing shit (or smell-taste-touching it) and going, "Oh."
You always knew the meaning of life would finally be revealed to you
some day in Cheap Eats, didn't you? Well this is that day. Yep, the
meaning of life would best be summed up as, oh. I'd of told you
sooner, but I had to work out the details. Then too I was on the wrong
track myself, for some time, trying to decide between hmm, hot dog,
and dang.
Speaking of which, you should have seen me yesterday in Japantown,
walking around in triangles between Benkyodo, Miyako Sushi, and a bowl
of fried chicken soup at a noodle joint between the two and across the
street. The street being Buchanan, between Sutter and Post, which is
not open to traffic, so at least I didn't have to worry about getting
run over by a car. I can't tell you how many times that's happened to
me while trying to decide where to go for lunch.
I decided on Benkyodo, and I'm embarrassed to admit I arrived at said
decision through the use of logic, not because it was the first place
I saw. See, I knew I was having soup for dinner, so I ruled out the
noodle joint. And my wife's a huge sushi fan, so I figured I'd file
Miyako for a future dinner date.
Dang. Hot dog. Hmm, so what's going to be my philosophical take on
a sliced-bread turkey sandwich with iceberg lettuce, onion, and tomato
($3) in Japantown?
I know: that the food was not the point. The point of Benkyodo is these
Japanese confections called manju, or mochi. Little doughy dumpy doo-dads
with sweet bean paste centers. They make them there, and have been doing
so since 1906.
They also have a cute little lunch counter, serving cereal or doughnuts
for breakfast, sandwiches, hot dogs, and hamburgers for lunch. But there
is no grill or griddle, so I hate to think where and if the burgers
get cooked.
In the microwave?
There's a hot dog spinner-ma-hicky, and a steaming tin of what I guessed
to be soup. But when I asked what kind of soup they had the woman went
and looked on a shelf and said, "Chicken noodle." And when
I looked where she was looking I saw a case of cans of Campbell's. So
... OK, I passed on the soup du jour.
Maybe that was chili in the soup bin. If so, I shoulda got a chili
dog. Probably shoulda got one anyway, but I opted for dessert instead,
sweets being the point of the place.
I got a strawberry mochi for a buck, and a pancake mochi for 75 cents.
And I'm not much of a sweets guy myself, but these were some pretty
sweet sweets. The strawberry one featured a real live strawberry surprise
in the center, and the other was a cute little pancake sandwich, with
black bean paste in the middle.
Would I go back? No, but only because I've already been. You?
Benkyodo. 1747 Buchanan (at Sutter), S.F. (415) 922-1244.
Daily, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Takeout available. No alcohol. Credit cards not
accepted. Wheelchair accessible.
Dan Leone is the author of Eat This, San Francisco (Sasquatch
Books), a collection of Cheap Eats restaurant reviews, and The Meaning
of Lunch (Mammoth Books).