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San Francisco
Potrero Hill Book - Arcadia
Books Present:
Authors Peter Linenthal and Abigail Johnston Date: Wednesday, October 5, 2005 Below
is a special question and answer interview of
Abigail Johnston and Peter Linenthal, authors of "San Francisco's Potrero
Hill," the first book devoted exclusively to Potrero Hill. It is published by Arcadia Books as
part of its Images of America
series. Johnston
is the Managing Editor
of the Potrero View and Linenthal is the Director
of the Potrero Hill Archives Project
which has been in existence since 1986.
The interview was conducted by Bruce B. Brugmann, Bay Guardian Editor
and Publisher, as a special online feature for the
paper's 39th anniversary special, published Oct. l9th, 2005
and as a prelude to Potrero Hill History night to
be held Saturday, Oct. 22, at
the Enola Maxwell School, 656
DeHaro Street @ 18th Street, beginning
at 7 p.m.
with exhibit viewing beginning
at 6 p.m.
Bay Guardian: This is
San Francisco's Potrero Hill Images of America by Peter Linenthal and Abigail
Johnston from the Potrero Hill Archives Project. Now from my point of view, the Potrero Hill Archives Project
is the premier neighborhood research and historical project in the city and
Peter that's you. Peter Linenthal: Thank you. BG: And Abigail works for
what I consider the best neighborhood newspaper in town as the Managing Editor. Abigail Johnston: Thank you, thank you. BG: So we have the two key
people here to explain and talk about Potrero Hill and their book and Potrero
Hill History Night in San Francisco and the Archives Project. PL: BG: PL: Unfortunately, since
we became involved in the book, I've
BG: So Abby, when did you
come into the AJ: No I haven't. BG: On page 127, you have
the staff all very 70's, subversive looking, and very Potrero looking. When was
this picture taken? AJ: This
picture was taken in 1979 BG: Now this is pretty
good size staff for a neighbor newspaper.
Do you have this many now? AJ: No
BG: I always thought one
of the best set of archives in the city and in the neighborhood were
the bond copies AJ: It's good and BG: This is a splendid
book and everyone I have shown it to and seen it has said so. I looked at Arcadia Books a little bit and
they specialize in this kind of publishing. AJ: BG: So this is like 31 or
32 - this obviously has a special quality to it and it's obvious that you folks
are knowledgeable, put a lot of time in this and picked a lot of the right
stuff. What was your theme behind
this? Did they tell you what to
do? How did they do it? PL: Well, when they came
to us, the first thing we told them was that we really want to take our time
and we gave ourselves one year. We
knew it would really take a long time and I am glad we took as long as we did
because it took longer than I thought and there was really a lot of work
involved. AJ: Yes, we were working
on it for a long time. Also, both
of us were juggling. Neither one
of us could work at it just non-stop.
Peter had other assignments. He's a book illustrator and photographer
and I had the View every two weeks. PL: We began by immersing
ourselves in the collection and just looking at everything we had and seeing
what themes emerged. There was a
lot of back and forth in the process of working on the book whether we would
follow BG: Speaking as a
journalist myself, I can see that this is an interesting writer/editor process
because you were both operating as writers and editors. PL: And
photo editors and collectors. BG: So it
was a real collaboration. AJ: BG: Well,
it's good you had two of you. PL: I knew I needed
someone to help from the beginning.
I knew I didn't want to do it on my own! BG: As
you look through here, this really hangs together well. PL: Some of that I think
is due to Abby's ability to group photographs thematically and really make them
tell a story. BG: How
do you do that? AJ: I've been a book
designer most of my life and books that I've There was no flow. BG: Let's
give an example. What illustrates that point
AJ: We would go back and
forth between being thematic and being chronological. Our editors first told us bluntly, cheerfully that virtually
all of their UIW from its
surrounding neighborhood just didn't seem the way to go. PL: A good example
AJ: BG: The
book has AJ: And we have
photographs of the tents extending all the way down 3rd street and
Mission Bay BG: And is this were 3rd
Street is? Were these along the
sides? Was there a 3rd
Street at that time? AJ: It
was called Kentucky then.
BG: How
long were they there? AJ: The
tents weren't there all that long but the shacks were there a while.
PL: I remember someone telling us that what
was frustrating was the spaces were actually really small
BG: Is this the real start
of Potrero Hill becoming AJ: A lot of them were
from the South of Market area. BG: Did they then go back
to where they originally lived or did they PL: A lot
of them stayed. BG: Did
they rent or buy? PL: Well,
a lot of the hill at that point was unbuilt up BG: Was it owned by
somebody? Back where I am from in
Iowa, we have the Hom PL: I
think it was owned by that point.
It really got bought up and built upon. BG: To see all these
people if they had a little piece of land there they could really populate the
hill. PL: The picture on the
cover is from 1908 just a couple of years after the earthquake and I think you
can see construction happening, at least in several places and then here's the
point where a lot of the hill really gets built up and much more filled in. BG: Alright now, the most
enduring name of Potrero Hill is Goat Hill. What's the history of the goats? Are there any goats in the back of those houses and are
there any goats today? AJ: I don't know if there
are any goats today. BG: Is
that where they got the name? Did
the goat come before the name? PL: I
think pizza came before they got Hilda.
AJ: Then they got Hilda and then Hilda had a couple of kids. By the way, my husband took that
photograph. PJ: It's
kind of cool. In the backyard
there they would give Hilda the leftovers. BG: Do both of you go back
to the days when there was a goat there?
You can personally verify that there was a goat there? AJ: Oh, yes. As I said, my husband took this
photograph. W PL: I tried to take Hilda to a class I was giving. I was working at a preschool and I
tried to get her in
PL: I didn't know though
until we worked on the book that a Russian man said that when the houses were
torn down to due to the public housing projects, that a lot of those houses
belonged to the BG: I was delighted to see
PJ: It pretty much is. It was built by the Salvotti family out of wood that had been BG: One of the difficult
things in San Francisco is you see a building, you see it for years, then someone tears it down and you
go by it the next day and you wonder what was there and what did it look like
it's a horrible feeling. I had
that feeling just the other day.
How many of buildings that you have in here are still standing? About half? PL: I
would say probably more about 75 BG: Now the Neighborhood
House goes back to 1925. AJ: Julia Morgan, the architect. woman to head an architect's office in San Francisco. The Presbyterians perhaps selected her because she
was cheaper than other architects they might have gone to this was before Hearst Castle after all. BG: I remember when I
first went up AJ:
BG: I happen to remember
Tony Lazzeri AJ: Well,
it is there hanging on the
recreation
PL: There are some
photographic discoveries that were a lot of fun. Hunting at the Maritime Museum Library, they have the
collection of the Bethlehem Shipyards, and on Page 30 and 31, the picture on
Page 31 of Irish Hill is very familiar.
But digging through their archive, we found the photo to the left of it
which joins with that photo. We
didn't join them literally, but they do overlap so you get a broad sweep of the
Bethlehem Steel. BG: Those
buildings are pretty much intact PL: The bricks ones are
but I think the rafters are pretty much gone. And Irish Hill is a tiny little
speck in their parking
lot. It's really no more. BG: I'm
very interested in the Spreckles Building and the Spreckle AJ: BG: The power house. What is the address on that? It says the South Shore Potrero Hill. PL: I should know this
better, but didn't he {Spreckles}
have a falling out with the electrical company, there were several
competing and so he started his own electrical company which eventually merged
with the other companies to become PG&E.
BG: Do you have a year on
that?
AJ:
AJ: Tubbs was where it was
probably the 1st major industry to come to Potrero Point. BG: Is
that where the
clubhouse is? PL: Yes,
one side of AJ: BG: I heard about the
Hell's Angels AJ: PL:
There's also a mean barking dog outside. BG: Well, how did they
build that? Did they buy it? How did the Hell's Angels get there? PL: I'm not sure, but then
for some time there was homeless guy in the neighborhood that I interviewed and
he was the mascot for the Hell's Angels when he was a little kid in the
fifties. BG: Oh,
it was there for that long. PL: I think they started
in the east bay. I don't know the
year they came to Potrero Hill. AJ: I know they were there
when I got my first job in San Francisco which was on 25th and
Minnesota PL: I thought it would be
cool if they came and spoke at History Night. We tried to get that going but they never responded. BG: I noticed your
literary section p AJ: Actually, they might
have been divorced BG: Yeah, Lester Cole
AJ: We very much wanted to
have a picture of Kay Cole and Lester Cole together. BG: You
couldn't find the two (Kay
and Lester) together? AJ: No. I found out their daughter's name, and
I talked to her, but she
BG: Why
don't you summarize PL: BG: Is
that where they ended up? PL:
No. They eventually ran an
antique store on Church Street. AJ: I
think they lived they lived there in that building on Church. BG: That's very
interesting because that clears up a lot.
The chemical warfare charges were during the Korean War, right? AJ/PL:
Right. BG: Now
were any of those articles every confirmed? PL: I don't know if they
were confirmed. We could ask Mr.
Powell. He's still around. BG: Is he
still around? PL: Yes. BG: Is he
still living on the hill? PL: No, he's still on
Church. His wife died a couple of
years ago, but he's still there. BG: You've got a lot in
here. What are your favorites or
your best stuff? Can you pick out
favorites? AJ: Well, we've always
loved the picture that's on the cover because it tells all kinds of
stories. BG:
Early, early Potrero Hill in 1908. AJ: Also, in the
background in the bay itself, which is PL: Another favorite is
the map on Page 33. This is my
favorite in a way because it shows the land speculation and the long history
because at first it doesn't look like Potrero Hill at all. It looks like it's flat as a pancake
almost. You have to realize that
it's published by a realtor company and they're trying to make it look like
attractive land for development. AJ: With
just a few little gentle rises here and there. PL: Yeah, the hill is
almost not there. But it does show
very clearly the industry
BG: What did you leave
out? AJ: PL: AJ: It
was a hard process fine-tuning our baby and it really was painful. BG: Did
they give you a limit? AJ: Yes, we had to have
between 180 and 240 maximum pictures and 128 pages, absolutely, and I think it
was 10 pages of front matter that's it, you know. And all kinds of things we would have loved to have, not
just pictures, but we would have loved to have had an index, we would loved to
been able to say more about our pictures. PL: It was painful to
eliminate them but at the same time the stuff that was left over looked better
and better AJ: We had BG: How
did you divide the work on the captions, for example? AJ: Actually, Peter wrote PL:
They're really boiled down. BG: None
of these are stand alone photos.
They all need explanations. AJ: I think that's true
with all PL: But
they all need to be enhanced with a story. AJ: Like this one, here is
Estelle West on Page 108. She, her house and her 15 goats were in the path of the freeway being built in the 1950s. BG: This is an amazing
amount of stuff -- from
the Potrero Theatre Program down to the family pictures of all these kids and
people throwing the snow where did you get all these pictures? PL: Well, we had the BG: You told me about one
that you had to track down or that popped up at some second hand store. Which one was that? AJ:
That's this one on Page 54. PL: It popped up at the
flea market, which used
to be the produce market on Bayshore. BG: How
did you get the ID on it? PL: All
that was written on the back was Russian people SF off Mariposa by 3rd. BG: So we
don't have any ID? PL: No,
so we don't know exactly. BG: What
year? PL: We
had to guess from the dress. AJ: PL: The
picture of the Russian funeral came from a family that was interviewed. BG: That
brings up, how did the Russians get to Potrero Hill?
So the story is that
PL: For a number of years,
there was confusion about where was Russian Hill because this was Russian Hill. BG: Okay, PL:
Actually the shipyards, working in the shipyards. AJ: Well, people don't
realize that while the
rest of the city was just BG: So
there was work for the men. What
did the women do? Did they work? AJ: Some of them did. They took in washing and did the kinds
of things that women BG: Well
what happened? They left? PL:
BG: D PL: I
think it's getting smaller.
I went there one Sunday. BG: Did
you fit in? PL: I think I looked the
part. They do sing without the
instruments in a very traditional way and they have ties with the BG: Are
there a lot of generations left? PL: I
think less and less and people are moving away. BG: Do
they own their own homes?
BG: Where
are they?
BG: Are there any other communities like
that? Ethnic communities? AJ: The Slovenians are from Czechoslovakia.
BG: Now what about the Molokans? PL: I think they were small. AJ: There is an earlier map that is PL; And we know there was a Chinese
community in the Bayview that harvested shrimp and dried them out on wards,
going way, way, way back. AJ: And actually we didn't get into this at
all, there was some things in the paper where there was talk of relocating
Chinatown here. BG: Is that related to the China Basin? AJ: No, that had to do with where the ship
were going to and coming from like India Basin and China Basin. PL: There was a neighborhood near where I
live near 18th and Missouri there is a little part of the Hill that
was called Scotch Hill because there was a community from Scotland there and a
Presbyterian church. So we had
Irish Hill, Scotch Hill and Russian Hill - all little hills of Potrero
Hill. It's kind of cool. The earliest map of the Hill AJ: They PL: I was searching with a neighbor, Julia
Bergman, and she got into the DeHaro stories and she's a mass of information
and friends of hers are working on a book now about the stories of the
DeHaros. We had to look through a
lot of microfilm of
all the California BG: Now you folks, the two of you, have
done more research and history and work on Potrero Hill than probably anyone
else and you're the official biographers of the Hill. AJ: We've got to know more. BG: Yeah, you'll probably keep at
this. What's the essence of the
Hill? Jean and I are from the
other end of town. We live in West
Portal which is a nice neighborhood we love the area. Then we come over here and my gosh,
this is a wonderful neighborhood though we never quite realized it. How did this come to be? PL: I think it comes because of its
isolation originally as a peninsula. AJ: It's almost completely surrounded by
water. One reason why the west
opened is that it was very swampy except on the west end of it. But on the north, south and east of
course, it really stuck out.
That's why that end part is called Potrero Point even though you don't
see the point. BG: Now where is Potrero Point? AJ: Potrero Point is all of that hole, not
the whole of it, but a good portion of that water funding Bethlehem Steel. In the olden days, it really was a
peninsula. There was really water
on two sides of it. Mission Bay
was all filled in. BG: Yeah, there's a lot of landfill there AJ: Yes, a huge amount of filled land. BG: We got into that with our building
because immediately at the bank and everybody said the foundation was this and
that, but we're on very solid land, but a little ways away . . . PL: I think a lot of Mission Bay is land
filled. That's why we did so well in the earthquake. We're a big chunk of serpentine. BG: So let's follow that. So it was a peninsula with a lot of
water around which meant what? PL: It meant that it was useful as a
pasture for the cattle from Mission Dolores and practical in the sense that it
could be a surrounded pasture.
They only had to build a very small brick or stone wall because of the
boarders of the pasture Potrero means pasture. BG: Well, the Potrero Hill martini, does
that work? PL: That's the pasture martini. BG: How did that big brewery get
there? What was it before Bruce
and his gang got over there. AJ: I think it was a brewery before that,
right? PL: No, we found out there was a funny
jingle with that company. BG: You have that picture in here? AJ: Yeah, it was the old Jason Sanborn's.
PL: But this edition is almost sold
out. They're reprinting it. BG: So is there any more of the essence
here? PL: But how has it kept its character up
until now? AJ:
Well, sometimes we think it might be losing it. BG: Listen, there's an onslot here. The plan is to put 30,000-40,000 down
here - Market re-housing downtown through 3rd Street. PL: I think it's BG: They're going to link this up. See the implicit rule which we found
out about if City Hall coverage is the rule at City Hall has been west of 19th
Street, no density west of 19th or west of Ceazar Chavez. Through all the problems and all the
stuff down in the south east part of town, this is where the highway goes, the
train, the power plant, the PG&E and Muni and now that are stuck. There is no place to go so they'll put
40,000 people down there. AJ: That is not a particularly new attitude
because some of the first industries that came to Potrero Hill came because
they were deemed dangerous black powder and put them down here. Of course other industries started in
other parts of San Francisco, but by the lat 1850's, industry was here. BG: So if the industry was here, that meant
that a lot of people wanted to be over there on the other end of town except if
they were working. AJ: Yeah, so it was very, very blue collar. BG: Kind of like sections of Dogpatch are
now? AJ: Dogpatch actually contains a little
flavor in its little micro-house it's wonderful. BG: Down here it's AJ: Yeah, there are these little places I
don't know what street it is, quite derelicts, but is still being used by the
fire company not as a firehouse but as a burrio from the 1880's or something
like that. And that helped get
another one there which has since been torn down. And that's a very nice building I wonder if there's any
photographic possibilities. PL: Another thing that ended up in the
neighborhood because of the forces you're saying is the amount of public
housing. I didn't know it but I
was taking to a long time resident.
She said that in the 50's if you said you were from Potrero Hill it was
assumed you lived in public housing. BG: Well's here another point. You've got is picture here on Page 3 and you point out that the 1100 block of Tennessee Street was finally paved in 1980 and you have a picture here of what it was before. I have always been marveled at this street of Carolina in front of the whit house, I guess between 16th and 17th; it's like something out of the country. How can this coexist a few blocks from showplace square? AJ: Well, just up until a few years ago,
there were still quite a few unpaved streets on Bernal, on that south side of
Bernal and you really felt like you're really in the city? BG: There's wonderful stuff about Bethlehem
Steel, the first World War how was Potrero Hill contributing to World War I
and II? PL: In a big way. They got the first contracts for a military ship. That was big news because that meant
that west coast shipyards were getting contracts. BG: Were we the first? PL: We were one of the first. AG: We were the first west coast shipyard
data contract it was done here in BG: So that great picture of the women of
Bethlehem Steel, I don't know if you have it, they were all buildings down here
for the war? PL: Yes, and it was amazing the speed. In the archives at the Maritime Museum,
they have pictures of how quickly they were building ships. In a matter of days, you can see the
structure go up and boxed in. AJ: I don't know if Bethlehem Steel or
Union Landworks set any records. PL: But they were competing and they were
major contributors. AJ: The competitions were an ongoing
thing. What I think was
interesting though as I seem to recall was that it went a little more
than that. PL: That brought public housing to the
Hill, too. BG: Was the public housing for the workers
initially? PL: The public housing started for those people
impoverished from the depression and then World War II started and suddenly
there was a need for worker housing.
So there was a transition from depression victims to worker housing. BG: Any of that housing been torn down or
pretty much there as it was built? AJ: There was some that was torn down. PL: There were some torn down for the
middle school. And there was
housing on the western side of Irving and Scott School that was torn down. BG: What we're worried about here at The
Guardian is that a lot of them are being earmarked to be torn down and put in
market rehousing. PL: Yes, somebody told me that if you just
go down to this office, you'll see a model of what they have in mind. They want a market rate an then a
subsidized mix, but they're afraid they're going to be displaced and not be
able to come back. BG: AJ: It's the best. BG: I mean you go out to Seacliff and
you never see the sun because it's all fog. We'll start out in West Portal and drive down here and it's
nice and sunny. PL: It never was really a fashionable
district and now it is becoming fashionable. AJ: And that is what is upsetting to
people. BG: Well that's why this is such a valuable
piece of work. PL: It's not good as it use to be. BG: Well, it's hard to save a preserve if
you don't have the history. AJ: This is something that Dogpatch
Neighborhood Association did a wonderful job on. I don't know how many years they worked on this project but
it was a couple to four years ago that they were officially declared a San
Francisco historic district from their own efforts there is there within a few
wonderful parts of our past. Now
with this being declared as a historical district they will be saved they
won't be trashed. BG: This has been really interesting, but
let's start to whine this down. We
have to make sure everyone looks at this.
How do you summarize your work, the Hill, the book - is there a way you
can do this? Is there a page or a
monologue. We found this
montelogue that A.J. Blumenthal wrote for a San Francisco news column in 1949
and we knew we had to include it somewhere. It sums it up in a way that describes Potrero Hill. BG: Oh, great, read it. PL: If you want to be literal Potrero Hill
is situated just south of downtown, west of outer 3rd Street, and
east of General Hospital. To put
it another way, it's at the intersection of if you want isolation, economy and
honesty. These are the ingredients
that make Potrero Hill into something more than a place and close to a
religion. BG: And that is the last draft on San
Francisco's Potrero Hill book. So
just give us a quick hit on Potrero Hill Night and what the two of you are
going to do. PL: This year and each year, this is our
sixth annual History Night the core of History Night are interviews conducted
by Phil De Andrade. BG: The book will be there? PL: Yes, the book will be there. BG: And what about our friends from Digital
Com? PL: We will have photograph enlargements
that will BG:
Will they be ones from the books? PL/AJ: Yes. BG: Give us a sample - a preview of a
coming attraction. PL: Well, there will be one of the
earthquake. AJ: We never did say that that picture was
a major find. The earthquake Pages on 50 and 51. It was actually a two glass mix and wonderful Digital PL: What's really
cool is you can see the ponds that are the remains of Mission Bay. I had never seen the scanned photograph
before. BG: Where in the world did you find this? AJ: From
PL: He didn't want to tell where he got
it. He's working on his own
Arcadia book about the natural history in the city and I think that will be
really great. Oh, another feature
of History Night will be a performance by a Hula group who practice up at
Daniel Webster. BG: What history do we have on the Hula
group? AJ: None, other than they live on the Hill
and the director lives on the Hill. BG: We have to keep this legit. AJ: Well, they have now hula-ed their way
to various celebrations and street festivals throughout the year. PL: And a lot of Potrero Hillers go to
their hula class at Daniel Webster School. BG: See one of the reasons I am really glad
to see this is because there is a real movement to have a major city museum on
5th and Mission with PL: I think a lot
of people didn't use to know where Russian Hill was but that's less and less. AJ: It's much less. But when I first came, as I said
before, I worked at Minnesota BG: We were at 520 Hampshire Street. AJ: Yes, I use to pass by there all time. PL:
That's a cool building. BG: And before that at 19th and
York and we never got down here.
Now, all this action Mission Bay and 3rd Street and so
forth, now people will know where we are. AJ: You know now people who have not been
here in a long time will see the changes on 18th Street and will be
surprised. BG: Well one thing. We're trying to get into some
formula retail to save and preserve this area. PL: Is there a logo or something like Buy
Potrero? BG: Yeah that stuff too, but I talking more
about zoning. AJ: Quick, quick, quick! PL: You mean so there won't be chains. BG: Yeah, keep the zoning - it's formula
retail and they dive other parts of town.
We'd like to do it down 3rd Street, but I think there would
be some resistance. BG: Well, this is good stuff and this is
really helpful. Our anniversary
issue is on the southeast corner - the politics, the economics. AJ: Cool. PL: Great. BG: A essentially explaining what is
going on and B putting out the ammunition to deal with it because what we're
finding is that all this talk about market rate housing, work force housing,
guess who they are building for?
The people who work in the Peninsula and Silicon Valley and the people
who can pay those high rents. It's
not affordable housing. PL: They want to treat it like a bedroom
community. BG: Yeah, and that is what they are
building here. See that is the
information we want to get out so there can be some resistance. That's the point. Well, thanks folks. We really appreciate this.
Books available
for available at: Christopher's
Books @ 1400 18th Street, San Francisco
Potrero
Branch Library @ 1616 20th Street, San Francisco 4
Star Video @ 1521 18th Street, San Francisco Center Hardware @ 999 Mariposa Street, San Francisco St.
Farley's @ 1315 18th Street, San
Francisco World Gym @ 290 De Haro, San Francisco Chatz @ ,301
Arkansas, San
Francisco
Video
will be shown
Saturday, October 22. Enola
Maxwell School 656
DeHaro Street @ 18th Street Socialize
and view exhibits at 6pm Program
begins at 7pm
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