CALIFORNIA

If you're a dot-com nostalgist who saw the world ending in the NASDAQ crash of March 2000, you owe yourself a visit to Range, where it is forever 1999 and the bar is forever crowded with rich young techsters in noir-ish mock turtlenecks. The spare, pale-green interior redesign of the old Timo's space has a generically edgy postmodern feel, but behind the bar stands a blood-bank refrigerator, recycled as a conversation piece, and the food at its best is honest and spirited, with careful (not fussy!) attention paid to ingredients and presentation. The coffee-rubbed pork shoulder, a variation on mole, is a one-in-a-million dish. (Paul Reidinger)

RANGE 842 Valencia, SF

(415) 282-8283. D, $$, MC/V