CHINESE

We all have our favorite Chinese restaurants, but few of them are as elegant as Xiao Loong, a West Portal spot whose calm architectural setting and skillful preparation of immaculate ingredients add up, quite discreetly, to a fine-dining experience. No, the setting isn't quite as spectacular as the Mandarin's, but it's quite nice, and the food is just as good – not too pricey either. The young staff, despite a glamorous edge, are knowledgeable and helpful, and the result is that you are likely to leave in a state not merely of satiety but of relaxation too. Not a bad deal at all. (Paul Reidinger)

XIAO LOONG 250 West Portal, SF

(415) 753-5678. L/D, $, AE/MC/V