WTF is up with CNY?

Intern Candice Chan demystifies the holiday that confounded her as a kid.

While I was growing up on the Peninsula, Chinese New Year (CNY) was a time when I couldn’t have felt more out of place. Filial piety, family unity, serving others instead of yourself; all that fun cultural heritage comes together on this holiday meant for starting anew and being with the people that you love. But, for an American Born Chinese (ABC) girl who knew more about cooking spaghetti than about cooking bak choy, the whole experience was strikingly similar to driving through thick fog on the Golden Gate bridge. Intimidation, uncertainty, and a whole lot of “what the hell is going on?” ran rampant in my mind. I knew red packets had money and that you were supposed to receive them with two hands, but did they hold some mystical meaning? And why was I eating funky food that looked more like it belonged on a tree than in my stomach? Top it all off with an inability to coherently communicate with my Grandparents – coupling phrases that resemble “Gung Hay Fat Choy!” with what I assumed to be appropriate gestures, doesn’t count – and you have some of the most awkward smiled silences and head nodding of my life. But, there was a saving grace: my cousins. Having all been born in the States, the joy and wonder of the unfamiliar food and customs we were experiencing became exactly what they were intended to be – a unifying force. Every strange dish became a topic for discussion, or a dare that couldn’t be turned down. One cousin’s mistake was another cousin’s intellectual manna, and as time went by we learned to love and appreciate all that the table and culture had to offer. As a tried and true survivor of learning about CNY the hard way, here are some tips to help you enjoy one of my favorite holidays; loved ones in tow and chopsticks in hand. (CNY this year is February 7th, 2008.)

Some Basics

The Story: Legend surrounding CNY is that every 12 months a man-eating beast would emerge to terrorize humans. The creature, named Nian or year in Chinese, could be deterred by the color red, bright flashes of light and loud sounds – thus the liberal use of firecrackers and fireworks. The term for “celebrating the New Year” (Guo Nian) literally means “the passing over of Nian,” symbolizing the eventual defeat of the beast.

Gong Hay Fat Choy (Cantonese)/Gung Xi Fa Cai (Mandarin): The phrase itself actually means “wishing you prosperity” as opposed to the commonly misconceived “happy New Year.” Say this to everyone you know on Feb. 7th, you bringer of good tidings, you.

Red Packets: Forget Valentine’s Day, CNY celebrates your single-dom! These gifts of even amounts of money – odd numbers symbolize bad luck – are bestowed upon the unwed by those who are wed. Originally evolved from the Chinese phrase “the money used to suppress or put down the evil spirit,” the packets are meant to bring prosperity and fortune to both the giver and receiver.

Lion Dancers: Lions are considered a symbol of power, wisdom, and good fortune. Coupled with the beat of drums and crackling of firecrackers, these bad boys chase away evil spirits and bring longevity, happiness, and good luck.

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The Food

Most of the dishes that are significant during the New Year have some connection to bringing wealth and fortune due to what the food resembles, or what the name sounds like.

Fish: Typically eaten on New Year’s eve, the word for fish (yu) is a homophone for the word "surpluses." Fish is always presented in its entirety with a head and tail to indicate that there is an ending and a beginning, making everything complete.

Buddha’s Delight: According to Buddhist tradition, no animal or fish should be killed on the first day of the year. Welcome in the year of the Rat with this vegetarian dish served using mushrooms and a black stringy moss – which tastes better than it looks – whose name sounds like “prosperity.”

Noodles: Uncut noodles represent long life and longevity, so get your slurp on to ensure a lengthy life. If you’re in the mood for lobster, this addition to a traditional dish is a perfect splurge that will feel like you’re doing good for your soul, if not for your wallet.

Nian Gao: A glutinous cake which is yet another homophone, this time for “a more prosperous year,” comes in salty (from Shanghai) and sweet (from Guangdong Province) variations. If you’re feeling adventurous, try both!

Lettuce: In Cantonese, the word for lettuce (sang choi) sounds similar to the word for “to bring wealth and riches,” so many families will eat lettuce wraps or dishes containing lettuce to welcome prosperity into their open arms.

Dumplings: These little bundles of joy are said to symbolize wealth and prosperity since they resemble ancient Chinese money. Almost makes you want to put a pot sticker in your pocket, huh?

China is so large that many customs and foods are individualized to certain regions of the country. What you see here is only a small sampling. If you’re curious to find out more, check out a review at: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_new_year

Restaurants

R & G Lounge, 631 Kearny, SF; (415) 982-7877, www.rnglounge.com
Pearl City Seafood Restaurant, 641 Jackson, SF; (415) 398-8383
Lichee Garden, 1416 Powell, SF; (415) 397-2290
Koi Palace, 365 Gellert, Daly City; (650) 992- 9000, www.koipalace.com

This year’s Chinese New Year Parade will be held on Saturday, February 23rd, 2008 from 5:30-8pm in San Francisco. For more information about Chinese New Year events check: www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/events/index.html

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