Culture editor Molly Freedenberg hits SXSW for the first time to explore the festival's extracurricular aspects. For Music Editor Kimberly Chun's take on SXSW's tunes, click here.
I’m finally back from South by Southwest. And by “back” I don’t only mean “in San Francisco.” The latter happened early Sunday morning. But I only recovered, brushed my teeth, got out of bed, and unpacked last night. Yes, it was that much fun, and that exhausting. (Yes, I also have a habit of squeezing every bit of fun out of every moment I can, which often leads to days of bed rest, but that’s another story…)
Now that I have some time to reflect, I can say deciding to go was one of the best ideas I ever had. (Way better than paying $180 to see Buffy the Musical.) First off, Austin’s rad. Now I completely understand why everyone I know is moving there. Rent is cheap. People are interesting. It’s got the politics, art, music, and culture of Portland and San Francisco but without the rain and gloom of either; and it’s got the weather of Los Angeles, but without the smog, the sprawl, or the especially high ratio of douche-bags to cool people our sister to the South has got.
The unofficial SXSW (female) uniform: summer dresses and cowboy boots.
And second, the festival itself. How do I explain this? It isn’t simply that there’s music everywhere. It’s that everyone is there because they love being there. This is summer camp for music geeks. Or Sturgis. Or (don’t kill me for saying this) Burning Man. Southby isn’t just a big, spread-out Coachella or Bonnaroo – both of which are contained, commercial festivals in the traditional sense. This is more of a temporary culture – where every venue is dedicated to playing music from morning to night, and where every person there is so dedicated to music they want to spend several days immersed in it.
In fact, I found the experience of being at Southby much the same as being at Burning Man: intending to go one place and ending up at another, running into people I never expected to see, leaving the house at 11 a.m. with the intention of coming home for dinner and not seeing my bed until 4 a.m. Drinking early, forgetting to eat, thinking I’d found the most inspiring thing I’d ever seen and then, two blocks later, finding something even more inspiring. Sure, at Burning Man it’s guerrilla art or random performance or the joy of seeing Barbie Death Camp for the first time – at Southby, it’s rock bands that sound like Led Zeppelin (Parlour Mob) or discovering the punk band I’m listening to actually sings one my favorite song on an old, unlabelled mix tape (Meat Men) or finding my way into the Perez Hilton party (not as exciting as it sounds) with a writer friend from L.A. But the fundamental feeling is the same: riding the wave of the unexpected. I bet you could even draw parallels between relationships at Burning Man – how some are formed and how some are ruined – and those at Southby.
And just like Burning Man, Southby isn’t for everyone. The pace is breakneck. The beer is unlimited. And if you don’t like crowds, walking, or loud noise, it could be your biggest nightmare. But for people like me, it’s an absolute fantasy.
Which is to say, yes, of course, I’m going to go again. But I’ll do a few things differently. Here’s my advice for other Southby virgins, based on what I learned this year:
Never expect to keep the plans you make. (Including how often you’ll blog … ahem.) The best part is serendipity – finding a band you’d never heard of that becomes your favorite (Yay, Diego’s Umbrella!), running into a friend you didn’t expect to see who takes you to the best party of the weekend, stumbling into a private party you couldn’t have known you’d be invited to. By all means, make sure you know what’s most important to you and have an idea of when and where it is, but don’t expect to make it there either. If the unofficial motto of Burning Man is “don’t bring anything you can’t afford to lose,” the unofficial motto of Southby is “don’t make any plans you can’t afford to break.”
Try to see at least two bands you know you like. The discoveries are great. Having heard this year’s buzz bands is also great. But if you leave Austin without having your magic moment, you’ll be disappointed. For some, the magic moment comes with a random discovery. For me, it was seeking out a punk band, a metal band, and a dance band – all of which gave me enough energy and satisfaction that I didn’t mind seeing one more indie band that was really good at playing music I didn’t care about.
Bring business cards. If you don’t have any, make some. If you don’t have a business, make personal contact cards. You will meet a million people. They will all be awesome. Even if you think you’ll remember their email address in the morning, you won’t. In fact, don’t count on being able to remember them in the morning. But when they find your card in their bag two weeks later and contact you, you’ll suddenly get flashbacks of the badass conversation you had about Chromeo while waiting for Vampire Weekend to play and you’ll be glad you gave it to them.
Bring more money than you think you need. Beer. Food. Cab fares. You’ll spend more on all of those things than you think you will. If you’re a smoker, same goes for cigarettes.
Stay downtown. If you’re really committed to doing the Southby thing, stay as close to the action as you can. There’s nothing like being able to run to your hotel for a sweater, a quick nap, or to drop off your bag. Otherwise, you’re stuck with what you brought – and chances are, you’ll get so caught up in whatever’s going on that you’ll just never go home.
If you want to see Austin, go early, stay late, or make plans for another date. Austin is an amazing city, clearly worthy of visiting on its own. And while Southby is a fun way to see it, you’re going to have to decide between seeing some classic parts of Austin or seeing all the Southby madness. For example?: I spent five days in Austin and never ate BBQ. Lines were too long downtown (I ate spaghetti and tacos instead) and I didn’t want to miss out on anything by going somewhere else. I also missed swimming at Barton Springs, going to the rodeo, and shopping for cowboy boots.
Plan ahead. Get passes early (yes, they’re worth it). RSVP to parties early (Look online at what parties went on last year and find out when they’re happening. Also check your favorite magazines, record labels, and products – they all seem to host parties, most with good band lineups – at Southby). Find out which friends are going. One of the best ways to make exciting new discoveries is to reap the research your friends have sown.
Pack comfortable shoes, sunglasses, and a hat. Austin’s hot and sunny. And Southby is a walking festival. You’ll do hours and hours of it. It doesn’t matter how cute your cowboy boots are if they cut up your feet so bad you can’t wear them. If you really have to look cute everyday, bring several pairs of shoes, all that hurt your feet in different ways.
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Comments (2)
Great list for people heading to SXSW. I agree completely, every single of one of these are great advice. If i had to pick the best, it'd be STAY DOWNTOWN. Makes all the difference.
Just wondering, what's the Meatmen song you are talking about?
Posted by Jason Feinberg | March 22, 2008 08:38 PM
Ah, 'twas "Two Down, Two To Go." Sheer punk heaven...
Posted by Molly Freedenberg | March 26, 2008 02:54 PM