So several weeks after the eatery's grand opening, I scooped up a friend with a sophisticated palate and a sense of adventure and headed downtown. We knew not to expect some kitschy regurgitation of gypsy stereotypes, but we had no idea we'd find a place so eclectic, classy, interesting, and sexy. We fell in love with the bar area, a narrow corridor with dark patterned walls and reflective ceiling, giving the illusion of great amounts of space without sacrificing a sense of intimacy and warmth. Our bartender was fantastically helpful and friendly (not to mention cute cute cute), and seemed to be a true lover of cocktails. The bar's signature drink, The Gypsy, was a delightful twist on the St. Germain's elderflower trend - a light, subtly sweet, complex concoction with an herb-y finish and easy drinkability. My companion ordered the 1862, named for the year of the Cinco de Mayo massacre after its primary ingredient (tequila) and made ambitiously interesting by the addition of Campari. It was suggested as an apperitif, and though it was far too bitter and biting for both of us, would probably delight dedicated Campari fans.

When our table was ready, we made our way upstairs to the dining room, another tiny space that seemed four times its size. Again, the use of lighting, reflective surfaces, and design was ingenious. A brick wall covered with glass and lit from the bottom glowed a warm yellow, mixing a modern aesthetic with a classic, sophisticated feel. Another corner held two white-paneled art piece lamps which might've seemed too art deco if not contrasted with the dark wood of the tables and booths. Another reflective wall gave the illusion of an expansive dining room, and the open balcony let the light and space of the bar below into the dining room. Our only complaint was the height of the upholstered benches beside some tables; Not only was the seat a bit too low for the table, but it also put me lower than my dining companion, who sat in an appropriate medium-height chair. In a restaurant this nice, no one should be inspired to sit on their knees.

The food turned out to be have primarily Spanish and French influences, with a touch of Eastern Europe. All seemed innovative in some way. Our bread came to us in a paper bag - a touch we thought was perhaps a nod to nomadic culture but that seemed a bit unnecessary. But the bread was fresh and tasty, if not remarkable, and the butter arrived soft enough to spread. We liked our appetizer of cheese-stuffed eggplant over greens, as we did an entree of seafood swimming in savory broth - but we felt both were too simple to order again. What blew us away was an entree of ribs and brussel sprout leaves. The bartender downstairs had told us the ribs were so tender "they'd melt off the bone when you looked at them." They managed to hold up to our gaze, but he was right that it took hardly more than a single prod to separate the sweet meat from the bone. If the rib sauce needed a touch of pepper, it was perfectly balanced by the naturally spicy and buttery brussel sprouts - one of my favorite vegetables and one rarely seen on any menu, much less an upscale one. If there's any dish I'd return to Gitane for, it's this one. We didn't try the Bacon Bon Bons or the tajine that Tiffany Melesheski talked about on SFist, but our waiter assured us both were worth trying next time around.

After this satisfying meal, our two cocktails, and two perfectly pleasing glasses of white wine, we were too stuffed for dessert. But no matter. Being there felt like dessert enough - a little decadent, a little sensual, a little intimate. It was ideal for two foodie friends (OK, one foodie and one food editor) catching up, but seemed even more so for a first date or even an anniversary dinner. In fact, I'd even stop there just for drinks if I happened to be near Union Square and looking for a tipple.

As for the gypsi-ness of the place, it seems the designers and chef took elements from gypsy culture and the countries where gypsies - or the Roma people - have historically lived, and combined them into a lovely, unexpected, and unpredictably consistent melange.

Gitane
6 Claude, SF
(415) 788-6686
www.gitanerestaurant.com

(Random trivia I didn't learn at Gitane: Elvis, Ricky Lee Jones, Sean Connery, and Fairuza Balk are all of gypsy -- or rather, Roma -- descent. Who knew?)