KIRBY COVE

Years after the closure of five clothing-optional Sausalito coves, due to damaged trails and lack of funds to repair them, nude and suited sunbathers are trickling -- or, in some cases, pouring -- back onto the string of beaches. GGNRA rangers, like Terry Swift, still say they're "not recommended," because of the trail "scrambling" that's sometimes is required. But readers report several of the sites, all of which are off Conzelman Road, are in relatively good shape.

Please note that the trail here is officially closed. "We don't have enough rangers to post somebody there 24 hours a day, 7 days a week," says supervising ranger Richard Danielsen, of the GGNRA, which administers the land."Some people do go down there, they get back up (the trail), and they don't get hurt. Other times, people do get hurt there."

To visit Kirby from San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take the Alexander Avenue exit off Highway 101. Instead of driving toward Sausalito, go under the highway and up into the headlands on Conzelman, four-tenths of a mile up the hill to the parking lot on the left with chemical toilets. Walk at your own risk down the winding dirt road (blocked to cars by a metal gate) that leads from there to the beach.

Kirby is a narrow, quarter-mile-long beach that's more exposed and somewhat smaller than Red Rock (also in Marin County listings). Expect sand mixed with pebbles. Swimming isn't suggested.

Nearly all nude visitors or mixed between nudists and suited visitors. On hot summer days when the tide is out, nude use can be as high as 90 percent.

Too many pebbles; hazardous swimming conditions; trail problems (see above); hard to find (drive slowly).

BLACK SAND BEACH

Guardian readers report that the days of having to scramble down the last 50 feet of the trail to Black Sand Beach, also known as Bonita Beach, are finally over -- which means a mix of men and women and singles and couples to return to one of Marin County's oldest clothing-optional beaches. "There's a 60-foot-long staircase that will get you down on the sand in maybe 10 minutes and back up in 15 minutes," says East Bay resident Trevor Murphy. "It's so easy that you could take your grandmother." Not everyone agrees with Murphy's assessment, though. "My wife thought it was harder going down the hill than the trail at Red Rock," he says.

Part of GGNRA. Trail officially closed. Please see Kirby Cove listing (above) for policy details.

Follow the directions for Kirby, but instead of stopping at the parking lot that's 0.4 mile up the road, look for one 3.56 miles from the start of Conzelman. After Kirby, continue up Conzelman to the top, where the road becomes one-way and goes downhill. Go slow here. As the road begins to flatten out, just past a guardrail on the left, check for a parking lot with a toilet. The beach trail starts here; it sometimes has poison oak on the sides. On a warm winter day, Murphy once found the trail "was very muddy." Don't stray from the path; two hikers were injured and had to be rescued when they did so in 1998. To exit from the parking lot, go west on Conzelman half a mile, turn right on Field Road and again on Bunker Road. Follow it through the Barry-Baker tunnel under Highway 101; turn right on Alexander Avenue to 101.

A cove that's around a half-mile long and 12-to-15 feet wide. On windy days, some visitors "insert themselves in (rocky) wind-protected alcoves," reports Murphy.

Black Sand's getting a mixture of users, both nude and suited, with gay male singles usually outnumbering hetero couples. Murphy stopped by once with his wife and another time by himself. "People weren't very sociable," he says. And Rich Pasco tells of being part of "the only heterosexual pair" on the east end of the beach, facing the Golden Gate Bridge. "Everyone was naked." Close to the trail's end, he found a few swimsuit-wearing families.

Trail officially closed; some poison oak; reports of sex on the beach in previous years; at all of the Sausalito coves, you may encounter trash, gawkers, and water that is sometimes too cold and swift for swimming.

CENTRAL BONITA

Want a great view of the Golden Gate Bridge without the usual crowd scene? Can you stand a little wind now and then? Then you may want to join the few visitors who still make the trek to Central Bonita Beach, which requires a hike down a crumbling, closed trail. Bring good hiking shoes. At least half of the users are usually naked or topless at this little cove.

Part of the GGNRA.

Head for Black Sand Beach (see above) and continue on Conzelman Road until it becomes two-way again. Park in the lot with the chemical toilet on the left. Stay left and look for a narrow trail that leads to the beach; it should be used with extreme caution. You'll need to "scramble down some crumbling, rocky bluffs near the bottom (of the path) that are often washed out" to get to the sand, advises Scott Marovich.

Central Bonita has the same great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco as Black Sand Beach does, but it's smaller and usually windier.

A recent visitor reports maybe 10 or 12 people at the cove. About 50 percent go nude or topless.

See Black Sand; bad trail; wind; walking around the rocks in an attempt to enter or leave the cove is hazardous.

WEST BONITA BEACH

Although textile-less tanning is the main recreational sport at little West Bonita Beach, it's also a great spot to swim when there's no wind or undertow. However, the trail is still closed, slippery, and dangerous.

Part of the GGNRA.

Follow directions to Central Bonita (see above) and park in the lot with the chemical toilet. The park service has erected a wood-and-cable fence across the trail near the lot, along with a warning sign. There are no other safe trails to the beach. When it reopens, take the trail, which is a dirt fire road, eventually looping uphill. At the bottom of the loop, go left along a narrow side path that leads into the brush. Keep following the forks in the path that point you back toward the Golden Gate. You'll come to railroad-tie steps leading much of the way down, but, at last report, the final 20 feet were crumbling and muddy. "Wear sturdy shoes for this part," a visitor suggests. "Small children can usually make it if kept on a tight rein." Do not veer off the path, even if you see a shortcut; it could lead to a fall to the rocks or water below.

The beach is so small that it disappears in high tide.

"If there were 20 people here, it would be real crowded," says Scott Marovich. Expect a mixed crowd of singles and families, with more than 50 percent nude or topless.

Trail closed (effectively blocking access); directions could be improved; swimming hazardous when undertow exists; loss of beach during high tide.

SOUTH RODEO BEACH

Located just south of the public Rodeo Beach, this cove is often cold and windy. But visitors say they enjoy the fact that it faces the Pacific, even though a few bewildered clothed tourists sometimes wander onto the sand.

Part of the GGNRA.

Follow directions to Kirby Cove (see above), but at the first juncture after Conzelman Drive becomes two-way, ignore the Beach sign and bear left. When you come to the lighthouse turnoff, go right. At the next turnoff to your left, after the white building, is a dirt parking lot for Battery Alexander. Park here. On the west (ocean) side of the lot, look for a sandy, somewhat slippery quarter-mile-long path to the beach that leads you downhill to the left, past a No Fires sign. According to Marovich, the quarter mile long trail is "narrow but not difficult." Others find the path hard because of its mix of rocks and sand.

South Rodeo is a west-facing cove that's often cold and windy.

There are small numbers of nudists and suited users, plus a few tourists who wander down the path.

Weather (see above); sandy and somewhat slippery path; swimming not advised.

COYOTE BEACH

Last year, we introduced readers to an emerging nude shoreline just south of the popular nude area at Muir Beach. Located west of the hillside called Coyote Ridge, it's known to just a few people. "I've gone three or four times with my girlfriend, who's been visiting it for years," says Alex Towery, of San Rafael. "It's a little sandy cove and beach." The hill is the first one south of the Muir Beach parking lot. A pair of paths lead up the hill; one, called the Coyote Ridge Trail, is just east of the slope's ocean-facing edge, while another is between the first trail and the sea. To find the beach, take the latter path over several ridges for about 20 minutes to the sea.

Unknown.

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (don't park on Pacific, even if you see cars there -- by the end of the day they'll probably all be ticketed). Or park on the long street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, turn left (south) and walk to the end of the public beach. "Then," suggests Towery, "take the trail that starts there along the hillside, but don't go all the way up the hill. Instead, look for a path that's just to the west of the first trail and follow it as it goes up and over two hills. It's kind of steep in parts. You can get a great view at the top of the hills. You hike for maybe 20 minutes, and then it finally goes down to a spot where it levels off and isn't so steep, and the trail takes you down to the beach."

Small but sandy. "I've gone swimming there, but it's pretty cold," adds Towery. "Just be careful of the big rocks that are on the right [north] side of the beach."

Often deserted, Coyote occasionally attracts hikers who wander down its trail to the water.

Unknown legal status; steep trail; needs better directions; cold water.

MUIR BEACH

Recommended!

Because it's so easy to use, Muir has always been my favorite Northern California nude beach. Unless you arrive after 11 a.m., when the main lot may be full, parking is usually a snap, unlike nearby Red Rock, "which," says Michael Velkoff, "requires a walk back up the trail." The pretty, curve-shaped cove features a diverse crowd, good swimming conditions, and a no-pressure atmosphere where you can wear as little or as much as you want. Still, not everyone likes the beach. Antinudity raids by sheriff's deputies only ended in 2001. "And," says Velkoff, "the weather at Muir is not as good as Red Rock."

Owned up to the tidal zone by a homeowner's association. All is now quiet at the beach where a series of surprise antinudity raids took place in 2001. Marin County sheriff's deputies say they don't have an antinudity patrol but will act on complaints. The biggest complainers seem to have moved. Some deputies are happy they don't have to visit. "Why bug anybody?" one of the arresting officers says. "If it's out of sight, it's out of mind. We haven't had any complaints in several years, so let's hope it continues."

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (don't park on Pacific, even if you see cars there -- by the end of the day, they'll probably all be ticketed). Or park on the long street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, follow a path and boardwalk to the sand, then walk north to a pile of rocks between the cliffs and the sea. You'll need good hiking or walking shoes to cross; in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water. The nude area starts north of it.

A small, lovely semicircular cove with, in most years, excellent sand for suntanning, reading, and picnicking.

Expect more than 100 visitors on a warm day. Straights, gays, singles, couples, families, seniors, young people, and others share Muir, which has a less social atmosphere than nearby Red Rock.

Gawkers; dogs; wind; parking lot jams up early on warm days; deputies may raid if there are complaints; amount of sand varies from year to year.

STEEP RAVINE BEACH

Hot springs in the sea? Believe it. Steep Ravine has two springs, one in the ocean and another on the cliffs.

But the trail down from the road is so slippery that we've never recommended it. In fact, we've rated the site a "D" for years, but it hasn't stopped people from trying to visit a clothing-optional hot springs that's nearly hidden in the sea.

Even finding the spring is quite difficult, as it's located in the middle of the shoreline's tidal zone. ("It's only usable at very low tide," says Dave, of San Francisco.)

And walking along the shore isn't much to write home about. It's strewn with enough rocks to fill a quarry. Plus, rangers from a nearby campground occasionally cite naked people. "Some people use burlap sacks [to pile dirt] to make walls for a hot tub [around the springs]," Dave says. Bring a shovel. Leslie, of Oakland, says, "It's a fragile place and has somewhat of a sulfur smell." Those who are brave or foolhardy enough to attempt the journey say winter's the best time to visit.

Part of Mount Tamalpais State Park. State park rangers here do not tolerate nudity.

From Muir Beach, go north on Highway 1 about four miles, then look for the Steep Ravine campground sign; from Stinson Beach, head south two miles. Parking is prohibited on the ocean side of the highway; park across the street. Take the dirt road, which becomes a very long and slippery trail to the water. The spring in the sea (at latitude 37.880, longitude 122.627) is on the north end of the beach.

Bring a beach chair to sit on the rocky shore, whose main lure is its pristine ruggedness.

Usually just you and one or two other folks. Up to a dozen visitors may be found during peak-use periods.

Extremely dangerous trail; possible law enforcement; poor parking; poison oak; springs often inactive or covered by rocks or debris; no sand for sunbathing; proximity to clothed families at nearby campground.

RED ROCK BEACH

On a scale of 1 to 10, Fullerton and Velkoff both give Red Rock a 10 this year because, as Velkoff says, "it's still the best."

Recommended!

With less sand than usual in early summer this year, Red Rock's traditional people-packed beach season is off to a slow start. "But don't worry, the sand is starting to come back," points out frequent weekend visitor Hugh Fullerton, an ever-friendly real estate agent who was once considered the Rock's "ambassador." Stinson Beach attorney/teacher Fred Jaggi agrees, "The sand is usually not this late in coming back from winter storms, but it will return." Along with the sand, crowd size has shrunk too. "We've only played a dozen Ultimate Frisbee games this year at Red Rock and it's been three weeks since we had one," notes Jaggi. "Maybe people are waiting for a hot day." The people who visit Red Rock continue to be highly social. And rock-climbing on Red Rock's towering boulders is just as popular as ever. "I've seen more climbers than ever," says Jaggi. Several months ago, a three-by-three-foot chunk of rock tumbled onto the sand, but didn't hurt anyone. Also new this year: Scrabble seems to have replaced Hearts as the most popular game on the beach.

Part of Mount Tamalpais State Park.

Go north on Highway 1 from Mill Valley, following the signs to Stinson Beach. At the long line of mailboxes next to the Muir Beach cutoff point, start checking your odometer. Look for a dirt lot full of cars to the left (west) of the highway exactly 5.6 miles north of Muir and a smaller one on the right (east) side of the road. The lots are at milepost 11.3, one mile south of Stinson Beach. Limited parking is also available 150 yards to the south on the west side of 1. The path to the beach starts near the large dumpster near the main parking lot. It's a long, steep, three-to-five-foot-wide trail, so take your time, especially near the traditionally crumbly last few feet of the path, near the beach, and when walking back up.

Except for high tide, when it sometimes nearly disappears or has more rocks than sand, Red Rock features a quarter-mile curve of sandy shore with rocky sides.

"On weekdays most of the visitors are men, but there are some women too," says visitor Michael Velkoff. "They tend to be regulars. We get a lot of newcomers on the weekends." Jaggi counted "over a hundred" visitors on a few hot days this year, but during the "low sand" period, crowd size was about 30 on June weekdays. Dogs are banned from Red Rock, but several visitors usually bring them anyway. "It's a people problem," asserts Velkoff, who usually tries to talk the dog owners into leaving and once asked a ranger via cellphone to intervene. "When I'm out there playing Frisbee, I don't walk a dog chasing me."

Crowded on weekends; long trail walk that in spring is sometimes slippery at the bottom; some poison oak near trail has been reported this season; auto break-ins in the lot reported by the Point Reyes Ligh; cold water, rough waves, and a small beach; dogs; some gawking; a little trash (often picked up by regulars); past reports of fly infestations.

LITTLE STINSON BEACH

Tucked away in a little cave-like nook between Red Rock and Stinson Beach is Little Stinson Beach, which has become a hangout for a few nude gay males.

"There's not much of a place to lie down," says Red Rock Beach regular Fred Jaggi. "It has more rocks than sand."

If rangers see you heading in the direction of the Little Stinson, they'll ask you to leave. Nudity is banned here and at neighboring Stinson Beach. Anyone trying to ford the wind-whipped waves to reach the cove from Stinson risks drowning and injury. During low tide, a few Little Stinson visitors sometimes walk to Red Rock, which also isn't advised.

part of the GGNRA's Stinson Beach Park, where nudity is not allowed.

Users park in the main Stinson Beach lot and walk along the sand from the main beach in low tide or north from Red Rock Beach. Neither route is recommended.

Mostly rocks, with dabs of sand, backed by a cave between two coves directly north of Red Rock.

Little Stinson only gets a few visitors. It's almost totally a gay hangout.

Dangerous access; rocks; high waves; law enforcement; great white sharks tend to appear in the waters off Stinson every few years.

THE INKWELL

A handful of skinny-dippers sometimes joins drivers, bicyclists, and hikers in cooling off at this old-fashioned swimming hole next to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Lagunitas. But more likely, you won't see them with others -- they tend to go naked when nobody else is around. The Inkwells is an awesome, invigorating place to soak and recharge. The site is named for its two tublike "inkwells" of water. Best time to visit: summer weekday mornings. On weekends, the site is usually a hangout for teens, college-age youths, and other swimsuit-clad visitors. "I felt more than a little conspicuous," says reader Larry, who decided to try the Inkwell Spillways across the street (see Elsewhere in Marin).

Private property next to Samuel P. Taylor State Park. "Sometimes the owners come out and shoo you away," a park spokesperson says. "The way I understand it," says San Geronimo's Clay Baldwin, "he only comes when there's a ton of people and they're making a lot of noise."

From San Anselmo, take Sir Francis Drake Boulevard west through Fairfax, Woodacre, and San Geronimo to Lagunitas. Some 1.5 miles after Lagunitas you'll come to the green Shafer Bridge. Park on the other (west) side of the bridge as soon as it's safe. The curve in the road is dangerous, so don't park where it says not to. Walk back to the bridge; you'll be able to see part of the soaking area from the road. Take the trail that starts 15 feet east of the bridge.

The site's stone tubs really do resemble inkwells. From the bridge, the first one you come to is a 6-foot-deep pool measuring about 15 by 20 feet across. Some 10 feet away and to the left is a smaller pool maybe 20 feet deep. "The water's cold but not unbearable," Baldwin says. Trees, bushes, and vines help keep most of the area fairly hidden from the road. Jumping off rocks into the water is not advised.

Varies from just a few users to 25. Baldwin counted 14 visitors, split evenly between the sexes, on a warm weekday. Percentage of nude use varies, but is usually low. Often, it's just a clothed site.

Plunge over the years in nude use; No Parking and No Trespassing signs posted and difficult parking; cold water that obscures rocks; later in summer, surrounding rocks may be too hot for sunning.

BOLINAS BEACH

On a sunny day, when the wind is down, beautiful Bolinas Beach can be a great place to throw down your towel and work on an all-over tan. Sans-suit sunbathers sometimes find shelter from the wind in spots on the north end of the rocky shoreline. You'll probably also notice dogwalkers and kayakers. Use this area with caution: although there haven't been any reported problems lately, Bolinas has an antinudity law.

Part of the land is private property facing homes. Bolinas's antinudity ordinance includes fines of up to $50 and/or a month in jail for first-time violations.

Starting in Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (also known there as Shoreline Highway) north toward Calle Del Mar 4.5 miles. Bear left on Olema Bolinas Road. Follow it two miles through Bolinas, and park in town or on Ocean Parkway Avenue, which parallels the beach. Walk until you find a spot with enough sand and privacy.

Somewhat sheltered from the wind by cliffs, Bolinas is wider than some of the nude beaches on our list but narrows as you walk farther away from the parking area. The best sand is near the cliffs. Otherwise, expect a fairly rocky shoreline.

On hot summer days families, out-of-towners, and suited sunbathers mingle with local naturists and kayakers. This is also a dog beach.

Local residents sometimes distrust outsiders; not enough sand; undertow; frequent wind; cold water; and poor swimming conditions.

RCA BEACH

Recommended!

Serene, windswept RCA Beach has something for everyone, whether you want to surf naked, sunbathe on the sand, or practice your hiking skills (expect a 30 minute hike from the road). "There was enough driftwood there to build a skyscraper," reports April visitor Michael Velkoff. "If it's windy, people use it to build windscreens." Suited and unsuited males and females, singles, couples, and families all visit this mostly nude beach. The mile-long shoreline seems even bigger because it usually gets just a few visitors, who are widely scattered along the sand.

The Nature Conservancy bought this land in 1977, then transferred it to the Point Reyes National Seashore, which turned around and leased it to Commonwealth Health Center, a nonprofit medical clinic. Official Point Reyes policy is that if there are complaints, nudists will be asked to move elsewhere. In practice, however, just about everyone at RCA is nude.

From Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (Shoreline Highway) north towards Calle Del Mar for 4.5 miles. Turn left onto Olema Bolinas Road and follow it 1.8 miles to Mesa Road in Bolinas. Turn right and stay on Mesa until you see cars parked past the MCI antennas. Park and walk a quarter mile to the end of the pavement. Go left through the gap in the fence. The trail leads to a gravel road. Follow it until you see a path on your right, leading through a gate. Take it along the cliff top until it veers down to the beach. Or continue along Mesa until you come to a grove of eucalyptus trees. Enter through the gate here, then hike a half mile through a cow pasture on a path that will also bring you through thick brush. The second route is slippery and eroding but less steep.

Decent sand that's good for almost every common beach activity.

Though seldom deserted, RCA is never crowded. "It's a quiet place," says Velkoff. "Whenever I've been there, everyone's been nude."

First trail mentioned in bluffs area somewhat steep; other trail slippery and eroding; long hike; rapid current; cold water; swimming not recommended.

STARLIGHT MEADOW

Rimmed by an estimated 200 acres of woods, a large field near the town of Dogwood has become the first clothing-optional meadow in the U.S. From Hagmier Pond (see next entry), expect about a 20-minute walk to the 60-acre site, which is good for picnicking, sunbathing, reading, and relaxing.

GGNRA land managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the four-way intersection, look for a GGNRA sign on the right, followed by a eucalyptus grove. Then check for a tree with a sign for Dogtown. Farther along Highway 1, you'll pass a red barn, a silver windmill, and a second eucalyptus grove. After the grove, when you get to the 12th bend in the road (be sure to count them), look for a group of some 20 eucalyptus trees. Park next to the rocks on either side of the highway. Enter through the lift-up gate in the fence on the east side of the highway, then take an easy, gradually climbing path about 15 or 20 minutes to Starlight, a large meadow in the middle of the trees.

Not exactly a beach per se, but a meadow ringed by a large expanse of woods.

Mostly gay males, but some heterosexual couples also use the meadow. An estimated 50 people on the hottest summer weekends and as many as 10 on weekdays.

Pullover easy to miss; lack of water; some gawkers; sexual activity; trail may be muddy.

HAGMIER POND

More of a hangout for sunbathing and socializing than swimming, the place that Marinites call "the Pond" is usually so silted-over and polluted by mid-June that signs warn visitors to stay out of the water due to its high bacteria count. "Some people still go there, but many of the locals now go to other locations," says Velkoff, who describes his last visit there as "kind of boring." Nevertheless, in the spring and early summer, and then again in the fall and on warm winter days, this inland site usually draws dozens of mostly nude sunbathers and water waders from coastal communities that are socked in by the fog. Sporadic visits by rangers have been reported; one unnamed ranger, in particular, is said to have been increasingly "hassling people."

Managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the stand of eucalyptus trees, keep heading north, past the Dogtown Pottery sign and some sharp turns with more eucalyptus. As the road becomes straighter, look for another small group of eucalyptus. The parking area is on the west side, next to a Randall trailhead sign. At the entrance, at milepost 20.53, walk right across the meadow and you'll see the pond. Look for sunbathing space around the dam.

A human-made lake with limited access to the water, except near the dam. "It gets more clogged with weeds every year," says Dave Smith, of San Leandro. Unbeknownst to most visitors, when bathers are not present, cows sometimes wander down to the water for a drink, creating possible health hazards.

Up to 75 mostly nude, mostly gay men on hot days; straight folks also visit.

Lake becoming clogged with vegetation; pull-off easy to miss (heading south, if you pass Dogtown, at milepost 18, you've gone too far); limited access; cow manure; cold water and varying water quality; sexual activity at or near site sometimes brings rangers.

SCULPTURED BEACH

Recommended!

Sculptured Beach is just as it sounds: a beautiful swath of land that Mother Nature has created and refined for countless centuries. As long as you don't go nude near the public entrances to beaches and don't do anything that will draw complaints, almost anything goes at Sculptured -- and the rest of the Point Reyes National Seashore. The site has outstanding sand. And the beach is so big that, away from the parking lots and paths, there's lots of space where visitors can disrobe without bothering nonnudists. To avoid fog and wind, consult forecasts before heading out. Expect a moderately long walk to good sites. Activity tip: Once there, look around and, after you've taken a few minutes to relax, go exploring. There's plenty to check out, including tide pools, rock formations, a blowhole, whales, dolphins, and some of California's most lovely sunsets.

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. See ranger comments in next entry.

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Then follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north. Pick up a map at the ranger office in Olema off Highway 1, then take Limantour Road to Limantour Beach and hike three miles south, passing Coast Camp, to Sculptured Beach. Or hike seven miles from the ranger office, or battle the tides by walking along the coast from Limantour.

Laced with stunning tide pools and backed by breathtaking cliffs, Sculptured Beach is rugged and narrow.

It'll probably feel like just you and a few other people.

Fog; wind; cold water; long hike.

LIMANTOUR BEACH

Recommended!

Lovely Limantour is one of America's most beautiful beaches. Few visitors realize the long, narrow spit of sand, between Drakes Bay and an estuary, is also a nude beach. The site is so big -- about 2.5 miles in length -- you can wander for hours, checking out ducks and other waterfowl, shorebirds such as snowy plovers (if you are lucky enough to see these endangered birds on the north end of the beach), gray whales (including mothers and their calves during spring), and playful harbor seals (offshore and at the north edge of the sand). Dogs are allowed on six-foot leashes on the south end of the beach.

"Nobody hassles you," says naturist Michael Velkoff, who relishes his respites at Point Reyes and had just visited Limantour a few weeks ago, in June, on the day before we talked. "I wanted to be comfortable and I knew it was going to be hot, so I went there. You can walk for miles and no one will mess with you. It's a really mellow place. I just love the open space."

Velkoff suggests walking from the parking lot (which, on hot days, can be full by 10:30 a.m.) for 10 minutes or several hundred feet before removing your clothes. "Where we sit, the closest person is usually 100-to-150 yards away," he says. Another popular spot for disrobing is the sand dunes on the north end, which provide protection from the wind. Nudity is allowed, as long as it's away from the main public areas, such as next to the parking lots of Point Reyes' beaches. "You shouldn't rip your clothes off right after you've left your car and then walk through a picnic area on the way to the beach," district ranger Marc Yeston has told us. "If you think a family nearby might be offended, maybe you should choose a more discreet area." Rangers will respond to complaints.

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. Would a ranger cite a naked person lying on his or her back out of sight of others? "Probably not," Yeston says. "It seems about as innocuous as it can get. If somebody is away from other people, I can't imagine it would arouse a problem with any of the rangers."

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit, then follow Sir Francis through San Anselmo and Lagunitas to Olema. At the intersection with Highway 1, turn right onto 1. Just north of Olema, go left on Bear Valley Road. A mile after the turnoff for the Bear Valley Visitor Center, turn left (at the Limantour Beach sign) on Limantour Road and follow it 11 miles to the parking lot at the end. Walk north a half-mile until you see some dunes about 50 yards east of the shore. Nudists usually prefer the valleys between the dunes for sunbathing. "On a Sunday we had 200 yards to ourselves," Velkoff says.

Long, sprawling Limantour features soft sand, sand dunes, and plenty of wildlife. In late spring whales can often be seen. To see hundreds of seals, walk north of the "nude dunes" mentioned above until you come to the point known as Limantour Spit. Swimming is fairly safe.

Even with several hundred visitors on the sand on a hot weekend day, Limantour is so large that it usually looks deserted.

Increased ranger warnings; complaints about sex; fog, cold water, and wind. If you don't like dogs, stay away from the area south of the parking lot. (Dogs are not allowed on the north end, near the seal colony, and only on six-foot leashes on the south end.)

KELHAM BEACH

New listing!

Hikers occasionally sunbathe or swim nude at stunning Kelham Beach, which also sports a gorgeous, spring-fed waterfall that spills down the cliffs. However, the main trail down to the sand is temporarily closed due to erosion of the hillside. "I went (nude) there four or five years ago," says Michael Velkoff. "Just past Arch Rock, which parallels the beach, there's a trail that cuts through the woods on the bluff above the beach and takes you there." He describes the final portion of the footpath to the sand as being "about 25 yards long."

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

In Point Reyes, a 4.8 mile trek from the Bear Valley trailhead, starting at the end of the Bear Valley Parking Lot, brings hikers to an overlook above Kelham. But getting there requires more like a three-to-six hour walk of just over 8 miles via the Bear Valley Trail, which is considered the Seashore's most popular path. You'll go through a forest of firs and other trees that provide protection from sun, wind, and fog, next to Bear Valley Creek. The beach overlook is at Arch Rock. Follow signs to Kelham Beach, off the Kelham Beach Trail, whose cutoff, near a huge eucalyptus tree, is about .8 mile north on the Coast Trail.

The National Park Service calls Kelham a "quiet, secluded beach." For photos of Kelham and its waterfall, go to: www.scaruffi.com/monument/hikes07/rrey.html and Google images

Probably just you and other hikers.

Fog; wind; cold water; long hike; trail closed for now ("We advise visitors not to hike down to the beach," says the NPS); lack of others to help you if you fall.

DRAKE'S BEACH

Want to sunbathe in the nude near a historic site? It's said this is the place where Sir Francis Drake, the first Brit to sail around the world, landed his Golden Hinde in 1579. But some say it another spot in Marin County. Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, which connects Point San Quentin on San Francisco Bay with Drakes Bay in Point Reyes, is the point of contention. Each end is near a site considered by some to be Drake's landing place. Then there are those who think Drake came ashore in Bodega Bay, Tomales Bay, Coos Bay, or even Santa Barbara. Whichever is his true landing place, suitless sunbathing takes place on a spotty basis on the Point Reyes shore that bears his name, which is close to a memorial named after him. The area is just north of Drake's Beach.

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

From San Francisco, follow Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north to the Point Reyes National Seashore headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map, then follow Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to Drake's Beach Road and stay on it until you reach the beach. If you wind up at Point Reyes Lighthouse, you've gone too far.

Beautiful, untamed, and sandy.

Visited mostly by nonnudists, Drake's also attracts a few discreet skinny-dippers.

Cold water; wind; directions could be improved.

BASS LAKE

On a scale of 1 to 10, says Smith, "Bass is always a 10.0."

Recommended!

If you've got hiking shoes and don't mind a 2.8 mile trudge that can take 45-to-60 minutes, then we've got a great clothing-optional idea for you: go on a nude "walking adventure" in beautiful Point Reyes National Seashore, while on your way to a delightful skinny-dipping pond. "In the old days, maybe 80 percent of us hiked nude, but now only 30 to 40 percent go nude," says Dave Smith, who usually leads a group of Bay Area Naturists along the trail once a year for picnicking and swimming outings at Bass Lake (which, by the way, doesn't contain any bass). Periodic visitor Reese Smith calls the lake "gorgeous." Another fan, Roy Chernus, rates the usually clear, cooling water as "exquisite." Michael Velkoff, who occasionally shows up, says "it's a good place to bring an air mattress" and water shoes, although he prefers sandals. For the thick and grassy, but sometimes prickly, meadow that visitors use like a lawn in late summer or fall, include a towel or sheet in your backpack.

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1. Just north of Bolinas Lagoon, turn left on the often-unmarked exit to Bolinas. Follow the road as it curves along the lagoon and eventually ends at Olema-Bolinas Road, and continue along Olema-Bolinas Road to the stop sign at Mesa Road. Turn right on Mesa and drive four miles, until it becomes a dirt road and ends at a parking lot. On hot days the lot fills quickly, so come early; says Smith, "We saw hundreds of cars." A sign at the trailhead next to the lot will guide you down scenic Palomarin Trail, which begins as an old fire road and then narrows. From the grassy meadow mentioned above, it's just a few easy yards to the water's edge via any of three paths. One veers to the right; another, more eroded and plant clogged, starts to the left of the meadow; and another, newer trail is between the others. Crews usually clip back poison oak and other foliage next to the trails each spring.

The amazing thing is that even when it's foggy at the trailhead, it's often clear at the oblong-shaped, 100-yard-long, spring-fed lake. The area is surrounded by beautiful hills.

The percentage of nudity really varies at Bass, depending on the day and the weather. There could be hardly any skinny-dippers present (Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento, once counted 5 of 75-to-100 visitors on a spring day) to half the crowd (10 of 20 seen by Roy Chernus on a June outing) to virtually everyone. Once someone starts swimming naked, others often follow. For even more fun and adventure, try the lake's rope swing.

Instead of a "beach," Bass Lake is rimmed by a meadow that's sometimes muddy or prickly; long trek; poison oak on rope swing path.

MOUNT VISION POND

You have as little as three years left to enjoy this site. Mired in plants, the half-acre man-made lake known as Mount Vision Pond has been getting less users, nude or otherwise, in recent years, due to both its remoteness and problematic water quality. Repairs are needed to fix and clean the dam, but Point Reyes officials say they're unlikely to be made. Instead, says Point Reyes National Seashore district ranger Marc Yeston, "it's going back to nature." Authorities estimate the lake will remain viable until at least 2012.

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore.

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north to the Point Reyes National Seashore office in Olema, pick up a map, and then follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis past Inverness and Tomales Bay State Park and follow the signs to North Beach. Turn left on Mount Vision Overlook Road. Stay on Mount Vision for about 1.4 miles. Look for a wide shoulder with several parked cars on the right. Take the trail that starts here. It veers to the right down a hill 300 feet or so to the pond. If you pass some residences on the left, you're on the wrong trail. At the end, enter the water via a grassy spot on the dam face.

Mount Vision is a 150-foot-long lake surrounded by plant growth. "Half of the lake is now marsh," says Robert Carlsen.

Sometimes no one, usually fewer than 10 people, both clothed and unclothed.

Trail around pond becoming choked by plants; increase in reeds and mud; dam appears to be eroding; trail needs maintenance; cold, fog (but less than at Limantour); no social atmosphere; trail shoes needed.

MIDWAY BEACH

When it's not windy (bring a windbreak just in case the weather changes) or cold, Midway is a good place for a quick, "total tan" tune-up, at least when nobody's around to complain, or at least not any tourists. The good news is tourists seldom visit this rather remote sunbathing spot, located between North Beach and South Beach in Point Reyes National Seashore.

Midway Beach is within Point Reyes National Seashore.

Starting at San Francisco, head north on Highway 101 to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, head north to the National Seashore headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map and follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis past Inverness and Tomales Bay State Park and follow the signs to North Beach or South Beach. You'll come to the North Beach trail first. When you get to the beach, walk south along the sand. Or continue on Sir Francis Drake toward the Point Reyes Lighthouse (don't take the road to Drake's Beach). Just after the cutoff to Drake's Beach, look on your right for the trail to South Beach. Follow the same directions as above, except walk north.

A sandy patch of land that is ruggedly isolated.

You'll probably be alone. Only a few naturists visit here.

Can be cold, windy, foggy, and lonely; directions can be improved.

MCCLURES BEACH

Used by naturists for at least a decade, the northern tip of McClures Beach still draws small numbers of sans-suit sun-seekers. In 2000 and 2001, Point Reyes National Seashore district ranger Marc Yeston counted four groups of nudists on the sand. Be prepared for fog, wind, hazardous waves, and a fairly long hike from the end of Pierce Point Road.

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101 to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, head north to the Point Reyes headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map, then follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis Drake to Pierce Point Road. Park at the end of the road and follow the trail to the beach. The path ends at the middle of the beach. So far, nudists have been using the north end of the beach.

Sandy and mostly hassle free, except for the weather.

Most likely just you.

Cold water, wind, and fog; swimming too hazardous; a bit lonely.

ELSEWHERE IN MARIN

Want to stand nude next to a 40-foot waterfall that cascades onto a gorgeous beach? Some clothing-optional use on warm days can also be found at awe-inspiring Alamere Falls near Bass Lake, which is actually four separate falls. Other Marin locations that get limited clothing-optional use include Fern (not to be confused with Stern) Grove, close to Starlight Meadow, in the Dogtown area; and the Inkwell Spillways, near the Inkwell in Lagunitas, which made an indelible impression on a reader named Larry: "It felt comfortable to visit. Just do it discreetly."

May visitor Trevor Murphy told us that the water at Alamere is impressive during the spring but slows down by September. "The big part of the falls goes over a cliff into the sea," he explains, "but there's another stage higher up where the stream falls into a couple of stone pools on a little plateau." In all, Alamere is a whopping 70 feet high, with the lower part measuring maybe 40 to 45 feet.

Alamere Falls and Fern Grove are on federal land managed by Point Reyes National Seashore. The status of Inkwell Spillways is unknown; it is said to be monitored and posted with No Trespassing signs.

To find Alamere, follow the directions to Bass Lake, then continue 1.5 miles from Bass on the Palomarin Trail past Pelican Pond to the waterfalls. Watch for poison oak. The last half-mile of the trail is via a signed spur path, off the Coast Trail. From the spur, it's a little difficult to handle. You'll need to get down to Alamere Creek, but the trail to it is steep. Some parts of the path are only two feet wide. From there, cross Alamere Creek, which, during times of high water, can be tricky. From the top of the cliff, some daredevils scramble down the eroding, crumbling, rockface, which has become increasingly dangerous, to the beach. Suggests the Bay Area Hiker (bahiker.com) site: "Carefully cross over the water at the top of the second drop, and you'll reach a flat, where you can follow the water to the main drop at the coast's edge ... If you want to continue to the beach, walk from the top of the main waterfall where it spills onto the beach, north and slightly away from the cliff edge, to an obvious but unsigned, well-worn descending path. The first drop is an easy, stairstep-like descent down bare rock." The last 20 feet are said to be tough because of loose rock. Falling can be easy and there are almost no reliable handholds to grip. At the beach, walk south for the best view of the waterfalls. To return, retrace your steps. Fern Grove is said to be just north of Starlight Meadow. Take Highway 1 past the pullover for Starlight, then look for the start of the Randall Trail. If you reach Fivebrooks on Highway 1 and still haven't seen it, turn around; the trail is about 2.5 miles south. Take the path uphill until you see the meadow. Inkwell Spillways is across the road from the Inkwell (see above). At Shafer Bridge, look for two dirt roads on the left. Park past the bridge and walk back to the dirt roads. Follow the easternmost one, along the creek, for a half mile. When the road turns left, climbing toward the dam at Kent Lake, stay on the trail along the creek.

Alamere Falls: Alamere Creek is the source of three small falls and a large one that empty into the Pacific Ocean. "All of them are spectacular, but access to them is not easy, requiring a hike down very steep and treacherous trails," reports the Frisky Banner, a local naturism newsletter. "The worst and most dangerous is the last trail that leads directly to the beach. Two men in our group took that trail, and the rest of us stayed near the smaller falls. I was envious looking at the two guys running around naked under the big falls. I took a picture of them from above and even then had my stomach in my throat." Inkwell Spillways: "You'll come to a pool at the base of the spillways," says Robert Carlsen. "There's an outlet from a pumping station that's nice to sit at, plus some big rocks that feel great after swimming. For photos of Alamere, go to Google images

Only occasional use is reported, the most popular site being Alamere Falls.

Poison oak; dangerous hiking conditions near the beach on the trail to Alamere.