UPPER RUSSIAN RIVER

Surrounded by a little canyon that protects visitors from wind, a tiny Russian River beach near Cloverdale may be a good locale to try if you live in or are passing through Sonoma County or south Mendocino County. Another bonus: it's located three miles over the county line in benevolent Mendocino, so Sonoma County cops can't raid this place. It's away from cars and, even on hot days, most people. In fact, it gets only modest use by skinny-dippers and swim-suited visitors alike, even though it's near Cloverdale.

Unknown.

From San Francisco, follow Highway 101 north, past Santa Rosa and Cloverdale. When you cross into Mendocino County, check your odometer and drive 2.9 miles north. Exit onto Comminsky Station Road and take it west to the end. Park and walk down a short path to the beach.

A sandy riverbank on a bend in the river. A nearby freight train line is said to run only at night.

The beach gets limited use by nudists and non-nudists, so either or both or nobody at all may be present.

Unknown legal status; needs better directions.

GUALALA RIVER

Are you thinking of taking Highway 1 in the north part of the state? For a nice treat, check out a spot where a river meets the sea and nudists share space with non-nudists. Better still, when the weather's right and if there are no complaints, you can be naked during the day and even camp nearby under the stars. The site, just north of Sea Ranch, tantalizes Coast Highway travelers looking for quick rest stops, day visits, and even overnight stays. On sunny, windless days, fans of top-free and bare-bottom sunbathing savor the sand of this sunny shoal. But Gualala isn't for everyone. Don't come if you can't stand an occasional invigorating gust of wind or a little morning or late-afternoon fog. Pack a jacket and a windbreak along with your suntan lotion and you should be fine.

Unknown.

The beach is one mile south of the town of Gualala and 1.5 miles north of Gualala Point County Park. From Bodega Bay, drive north on Highway 1 past Fort Ross, Plantation, and Sea Ranch. Look for cars parked on Highway 1 just past the park boundary at Gualala River, the first landmark you'll see after the park. Access to the river mouth is by some dirt roads on the ocean side.

A wide, sandy spot that's sometimes whipped by winds.

Numbers depend on the weather and the time of year. On peak days, a few dozen beachgoers.

Cool average daily temperatures; lack of seclusion; frequent wind; fog.

LILIES BEACH

"Lilies is in great shape," says Brian, a regular visitor who couldn't believe the depth of the water at Mendocino's favorite nude hole last summer. "The water was over my head, maybe 6.5 feet deep. It was perfect for skinny-dipping."

On summer and early fall days, local residents and out of town visitors head to the sun-washed, clothing-optional swim site, which often basks in the 80s when, just five miles away in the village of Mendocino, it can often be in the 50s or 60s, or even be socked in by fog. In the past, rutted roads have been left nearly washed out by drenching winter rains. "This year, your car might shake over a few potholes and it's still slightly bumpy, but there's not much of a washboard effect," says Brian. "I was driving my Honda Civic there last summer without any problem."

But drive slowly and beware of oncoming traffic. Stay on the roads. Several citations have been issued recently for off-road driving. But that was before Mother Nature apparently decided to solve the problem on her own. During a storm, three large tree trunks fell across and blocked the main road that was being used by illegal off-road vehicles. It's now become a favorite destination of mountain bikers, who no longer have to worry about big trucks barreling down on them.

If you are young, watch out: rangers occasionally cite youths at Lilies for underage drinking. Rowdies sometimes react sharply to the authorities' efforts to crack down. Earlier this year, after a ranger ticketed some vehicles, vandals slashed the tires and broke a window of a his vehicle.

The only other issues are trash and noise from occasional homeless encampments. Last year, only a single tent was regularly seen by visitors.

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park created in 2002. According to the Big River Preliminary Plan for the park, until more surveys are done, "all access to and recreational use of the" area "is subject to approval" by the park superintendent "and can be limited by posted order" within the park. The Plan says that the hole at Lilies is considered a "local gathering spot" and swimming there is "currently not restricted," a possible indication that it may be allowed to continue.

From Albion, take Highway 1 north to Mendocino, then turn right on Little Lake Road, the first right turn past the main Mendocino turnoff sign. Drive four or five miles east on Little Lake until you see a sign for Mendocino Woodlands. Follow the dirt road that starts there for about three miles. When you reach the Woodlands retreat, go right about .3 miles, until the dirt road ends next to Big River. Park just off the road, where you see other cars pulled over. Follow the trail that begins there a quarter mile to the beach. Or, to save 1.5 miles, from Mendocino drive 3.5 miles east on Little Lake until you spot a dirt road with a yellow Forest Service gate. Follow the road to a second yellow gate. Just past the gate, at the juncture of several roads, turn right and take the dirt road to the parking area.

A beautiful, sun-washed, forest riverbank. Bring thongs or old shoes; the river is strewn with rocks. To reach the beach from the path, wade across ankle-deep water to a site that's a mix of sand and gravel.

Up to 20 people may show up, but usually it's just a few, according to Henry, who's been skinny-dipping there for years. Nudists, including small groups and families who often visit in the summer, enjoy Lilies alongside suited teenagers and adults and occasional partiers. A decade ago, Lilies was getting 50 to 200 visitors on hot summer days, with up to 95 percent nude use reported.

State undecided about anti-nudity enforcement (but no record of raids by local authorities in recent memory); increased ticketing of off-road drivers and underage drinkers; rutted but passable roads; trash near parking area; poison oak may be present; rocky river bottom; cold water; long walk to beach.

BOYLES SWIMMING HOLE

New listing!

Used by local residents for decades, Boyles Swimming Hole -- known to some regulars as Dead Man's Hole -- is located almost directly east of Lilies Beach and just to the east of Mendocino Woodlands State Park, further up Big River from Lilies. It's mostly a spot for suited swimmers, but, from time to time, a few skinny-dippers make the trek by foot or bicycle. There's a great rope swing at Boyles and the water is high this year. Access was once mostly by illegal off-road vehicles, but, due to fallen trees blocking the main dirt road, visitors are hiking in or arriving on mountain bikes via a trail that starts at Lilies. The crowd tends to be a bit rowdier and noisier than the mellow types who are usually found elsewhere on Big River.

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park created in 2002. According to the Big River Preliminary Plan for the park, until more surveys are done, "all access to and recreational use of the" area "is subject to approval" by the park superintendent "and can be limited by posted order" within the park. The Plan says that the hole at Boyles is considered a "local gathering spot" and swimming there is "currently not restricted," a possible indication that it may be allowed to continue.

Follow directions to Lilies Beach. Park where the dirt road ends at Big River and, turning left, park where you see other cars pulled over. "When you exit your vehicle, you'll be facing a yellow gate with a bridge viewable behind it," tells Brian, a local resident. "Take the trail that starts there and stay on it until you arrive at Boyles." Boyles is east and slightly south of Lilies. For location, see the right side of the map at www.mendocinolandtrust.org.

A fairly deep swimming hole with a rope swing located upstream from Lilies.

Varies from a few users to a dozen on the hottest days. Most visitors are suited, but, on days when Boyles isn't busy, a few skinny-dippers plunge into the cool, refreshing water.

Same as Lilies, crowd more rowdy; the hike from Lilies can take a half-hour, or even an hour or more.

ELSEWHERE ON BIG RIVER

From Lilies Beach you can head upstream along the banks of Big River to four more clothing-optional sites that became state property in 2002. "They're all in super shape this season," says Brian. "The places that are upstream are maybe waist deep. At a few spots, you can even jump into the water." Bill Johnson of San Francisco urges, "wear old shoes for wading." We call these places Two Bends, Three Bends, Five Bends, and Six Bends.

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park (see Lilies Beach entry).

Follow directions to Lilies, then walk two, three, five, and six bends downstream along the river, which at times resembles a creek.

Tiny riverbank beaches with cool water that usually varies from shallow to moderately deep, but was running around waist deep in July 2006. Sand and vegetation also vary from spot to spot.

Probably you.

Cold water; rocky river bottom; needs better directions; anti-nudity regulations may be enforced by the state in the future.

EEL RIVER

Every year, the Eel River electrifies explorers who are seeking an easy way to cool down without suiting up. Imagine a trip in which, at every bend of the waterway, there's yet another nude swimming hole, each with some nice, deep water. There are at least seven such sans-suit swimming spots along the enchanting Eel that are used mainly by locals n including this one near the town of Pillsbury, on the south fork of the river. Please bring a bag with you and remove any trash you see.

Part of Mendocino National Forest.

From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101, passing Santa Rosa and Ukiah, to Route 20. Take Route 20 east about five miles to the Potter Valley cut-off on your left and follow it northeast past the town of Potter Valley, north of Upper Lake. Follow the signs to Lake Pillsbury. After you climb a ridge and begin to go back down, follow the left fork in the road. Access to the south fork of the Eel is from this road, some 10 miles south of Van Arsdale Reservoir and Cape Horn Dam. The reservoir and dam are south of Pillsbury. Consult a good map.

Small but comfortable, a good place to soak up a few rays next to a deep swimming hole.

Just a few bathers in the buff.

Increased trash; directions could be improved.

WILLITS NUDE HOLE

Have you tried the great little skinny-dipping hole we introduced to the world two years ago? Willits has both nude and "prude" swimming holes on the Eel River. The town's skinny-dipping beach is only about 30 minutes from downtown. "Because of all the rain we had, there's more water than usual and it's faster, but everything else is still the same," says Bill, who lives just minutes away from the nude hole. "It's a great place to visit from the spring into the early autumn," says his wife, Mary. "It tends to be warm, but not oppressively hot. Everybody takes their clothes off there. In fact, if you leave your clothes on, it's considered strange." After traveling on good pavement, users follow a rutted road to the river and pick from any number of holes on either side of the river. "It's a miserable, hot, dirty road, with lots and lots of dust," cautions Mary. And once you're in the water, "don't be surprised if you feel something nipping at your feet," adds Bill. Depending on the time of year, "little black clouds" of small fish or possibly pollywogs may pour from under the river rocks and swarm around you. Bring water shoes to wear along the mixed rock and sandy shore. Except for the rutted road and little fish, expect nothing but great fun at this toasty, inland, no-hassle, clothing-optional swimming hole.

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From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to Willits. In downtown Willits, turn right on E. Commercial Street and, passing the library and fairgrounds, continue straight. At the curve, bear left. Look for a driving range on the right and a white building on the left. At the street with the white building, turn left. A mile or so later, turn right. The Hearst Willits Road sign is a good landmark. If you see it, keep going straight until you come to Tomki Creek. Cross the bridge over the creek, then turn left onto the first road after, which parallels the creek. Note: it's mostly dirt, with intermittent pavement. You'll soon come to a spot where you can turn left or go uphill. Drive uphill until you arrive at Hearst. After Hearst, look for a steel bridge on your left. Before or at the bridge, on the left, check for a deeply rutted road. Turn left and follow car tracks to the river. Park and walk upstream or downstream to any of several skinny-dipping holes.

A series of swimming holes dotting both sides of the river for the length of a city block. The beaches are mainly gravely riverbanks, with some sand. "The best hole, which is very deep, is next to a rock formation on the other side of the river," says Bill. "For some nice holes with faster water, walk upstream."

"Depending on when you visit and which spot you pick, you can be by yourself or, on a hot weekend, with 10 to 20 people," says Mary. "At that point, the area is really full." Some visitors have bonfires on the beach. Almost everybody is nude, according to Mary.

Unknown legal status; nipping fish; rutted and dusty roads.

DOS RIOS

Are you ready for some canuding? It's simple to do: just paddle your canoe to a skinny-dipping hole, pull your craft up on the bank, strip, and jump in. This beach, north of Willits, and the next four entries are examples of sites on the Eel River that can be reached via canoeing. You can also use a rowboat or hike there. Access is believed to be from the area near Dos Rios in the south and tiny Cummings in the northwest. The nearest large towns are Laytonville and Leggett.

Unknown.

From the Bay Area, go north on Highway 101 to Willits; from the Mendocino coast, head east on Highway 20 to Willits. Follow 101 north past Willits to Longvale, then travel northeast on Highway 162 to Dos Rios. The first of the skinny-dipping holes is several miles north of town.

Larger and sandier than most of the swimming holes on our list, except Mendocino's Lilies Beach and the sites along the Russian River.

Users include anglers, boaters, and small numbers of skinny-dippers.

Trash; proximity to train tracks; directions need improving; unknown legal status.

POON KINNY RIDGE

Although smaller than the riverbank beach at Dos Rios, Poon Kinny is just as fun.

Unknown.

Follow directions for Dos Rios. The beach is on the Eel River along the Poon Kinny Ridge, between Dos Rios and the southern border of Round Valley Reservation.

Similar to Dos Rios.

Expect several skinny-dippers, along with a few anglers and boaters.

Same as Dos Rios.

NORTH POON KINNY

North Poon Kinny features a swimming hole with cool, invigorating water and a small, somewhat sandy beach.

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Follow directions to Dos Rios. The skinny on this skinny-dipper's paradise along the Eel is that it's about one or two hours' north of Poon Kinny Ridge by canoe, depending on how fast you are.

Not much sand, but the water is clear and deeper than normal this year. During years with average rainfall, the site is fairly shallow.

As you head north, you'll probably encounter even fewer people than at Dos Rios and Poon Kinny Ridge.

Same as Dos Rios.

ROUND VALLEY

Canoeing is the best way to reach gorgeous Round Valley Beach, along the Eel River.

Believed to be part of Round Valley Reservation.

Follow directions for Dos Rios, Poon Kinny Ridge, and North Poon Kinny. The Round Valley swimming hole is a good 5 to 10 miles north of North Poon Kinny. Expect a canoe ride of at least an hour past North Poon Kinny.

Same as at North Poon Kinny.

Nudists, anglers, and boaters all come here to cool off.

Same as Dos Rios.

SPY ROCK BEACH

You'll need to be a good spy to uncover Spy Rock Beach, but below are some clues to finding a breathtaking bend in the Eel River where canuders like to voyage. If you strip down on the way here, don't forget to leave on one important item: a pair of reading glasses! Use them to follow a map to this hard-to-find treasure.

Part of Round Valley Reservation.

The beach is just south of Blue Rock Creek and Bell Springs Station. If you can find the town of Leggett, you're on the right track; the swimming hole is directly east of town. Follow the directions to Dos Rios. This hole is virtually opposite scenic Spy Rock. Access is by canoe or other boat.

Similar to Dos Rios.

Not too many people come here, perhaps because of the canoeing distance from Dos Rios.

Same as Dos Rios.

RATTLESNAKE CREEK

Want to hike to your own sensational swimming hole, where you're likely to be the only visitor? Those who are fortunate enough to make the journey to Rattlesnake Creek often go nude once they arrive. Suggestions: Pack water, wear hiking boots, and get ready for fun at this 20-foot-tall, clothing-optional waterfall, in the heart of the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness past Covelo. Although there's a reward at the end, the walk to the falls isn't for everyone. Rattlers really do live in the rocky, brush-strewn canyon. But, says Pancho Doll, author of the invaluable 1997 work, "Day Trips with a Splash: The Swimming Holes of California," you'll eventually reach what he calls "a tiny precious gorge" with a swimming hole, waterfalls, and lots of rocks perfect for tanning.

Unknown.

From Covelo, follow Highway 338 east as it parallels the middle fork of the Eel River. At the Eel River Work Station in Mendocino National Forest, take M-1 north toward the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness. Keep your eyes open for a bridge that crosses Rattlesnake Creek. Park near the bridge. On the south side of the road, near the back end of an undeveloped camping area, look for an unmarked path. Factor in 30 to 60 minutes for the walk to the falls, which ill take you past trees and down a gully. Follow the gully left to the water. At the creek, walk upstream until you come to the swim hole and falls. Boots are recommended.

No real beach, just rocks and rocky ledges, but you'll have your own private clothing-optional swimming hole and a beautiful waterfall.

Probably just you. Some visitors apparently stay overnight at the unsanctioned camping spot near the bridge.

Rocks and rocky ledges; trail unmarked; unknown legal status; and (check for them on the path) did we mention the rattlesnakes?

STONY CREEK

Some two hours from Clearlake, next to a stream in the Mendocino National Forest, walkers will discover a hidden treasure: three gorgeous pools that are great for skinny-dipping. Better still, two of these dazzling turquoise swimming holes have their own private waterfalls. And if you look carefully, a third hole can be found below them, off a sunny trail.

U.S. Forest Service land within the Snowy Mountain Wilderness.

From Clearlake, take Highway 53 north 3.8 miles, then turn right onto Highway 20. Go 28 miles and make a left turn onto Leesville Road. Follow it for 13.6 miles. Turn right onto Leesville Lodoga Road. Stay on Leesville Lodoga for 9 miles, then turn left onto Lodoga Stonyford Road. Drive 7.7 miles to Stonyford. Pick up M-10 at the Stonyford Work Center, at 5171 Stonyford-Elk Creek Road in Stonyford and follow it 10 miles to North Fork Campground. From there, take the trail up Stony Creek until you reach another creek that comes in from the west. After another 10 minutes of walking, check for an overhang that juts over the creek. There you'll find the lower of the three pools. Walk 10 minutes farther upstream and you'll see the pools with the waterfalls.

A trio of secluded pools with some sunning rocks and at least two waterfalls.

Probably just you.

Sunning rocks tend to be quite slippery; lack of many landmarks on the trail; high heat on the trail during the summer because it's exposed to the sun.