Appetite: More Upper highs and Valley loves

Magnolia in the Upper Haight rules for brunch and brews

In this week's Appetite column in the paper, I ran down my picks for the best spots to eat a quality meal (without the expense of other areas) in the Upper Haight and Cole Valley region. Below are more of my favorites from my home 'hood, including picks for coffee, brunch, and cocktails -- including delicious sangria, a cheese gem, and a woeful tale of a hot dog scramble to avoid.

COFFEE: Coffee has long been rough in the Haight. Until Haight Street Market opened a Blue Bottle kiosk in their store, one couldn't get a proper cup. While appealing cafes like Reverie boast a welcome back patio, and the La Boulange chain on Cole serves substantial pastries, none offers a cappuccino or espresso to satisfy coffee snobs. But just in the last week or so, there's a quiet coffee revolution afoot with two new cafes. Flywheel Coffee Roasters looks like a hipster Mission coffee spot with a handful of laptops and industrial-stark interior. Though they aren't going the foam art/microfoam route at this point and they have not begun roasting their own beans in-house as they plan to, initial cups are promising. The other new spot is Stanza in the Coco Luxe space. They'll be doing coffee cuppings on the first Thursday of each month (7pm) and have their coffee roasted by Augies in Southern California. They DO have foam art and proper cappuccinos. A welcome neighborhood addition.

BRUNCH: I've never gotten Zazie's endless brunch waits. Sure, it's a charming, little Parisian space, though I've had better luck with non-brunch meals. But for 1-2 hour waits (they do have a nice system now that alerts you when your table is ready), it's amazingly mediocre. Personally, I wouldn't wait any amount of time for mediocre. There are so many delicious brunches in the city, I am flummoxed as to why, after all these years, this remains many locals' favorite. The original Pork Store Cafe likewise has waits (though not as painful as Zazie's) which I likewise don't find worth it. I once had a "sausage" scramble here that was hot dog slices. What it does have is quirky, old school diner charm and clientele. My brunch recommend in the 'hood, though, is always Magnolia. Arriving before noon, I've never had a wait and the food is quality (plus there's Blue Bottle coffee and beers).

FOOD: Kezar Bar (the one on Cole, not the pub on Stanyan) can occasionally surprise with above-average bar food, like giant potato pancakes with Andouille sausage, applesauce, sour cream - in a cozy, pub atmosphere. Despite the crowds and its faded glory, there's still something appealing about the original Cha Cha Cha. Maybe it's Mother Mary presiding over the bar, plants surrounding tables for that tropical effect, the festive atmosphere, plantains and black beans, or that damn tasty sangria. Citrus Club's food is pretty hit and miss - downright average, really (who has time for that in this city?) - but many adore it because it's cheap and easy Asian "fusion" (they mix and match Asian cuisines with abandon).

For burgers, if you're not eating Magnolia's fab burger, local chain Burgermeister is the best bet as Burger Urge just doesn't cut it. Since the '70s, Say Cheese is a tiny Cole Valley gem of a market. Their small selection of cheeses, meats, wines, chocolates, is well curated, the staff are responsive and they make worthy deli sandwiches (like Cajun turkey, creole mustard, pepperoncini, pepper havarti), ideal to take to nearby parks.

DRINK: Us spirits and cocktail lovers have a soft spot for Aub Zam Zam. This is not cutting edge cocktails. It's a slice of SF history, with a strong spirits selection and older, seasoned bartenders who are knowledgeable and sweet (since lovably cantankerous Bruno passed away, God rest his soul, there's no kicking people out on a whim anymore). They make a mean gin martini, boozy and bright. The space evokes the Art Deco era with an exotic, Moroccan slant. Divey and dingy, it's a classic I hope we'll never lose.

Subscribe to Virgina's twice-monthly newsletter, The Perfect Spot,

Related articles

  • Pedaling and feasting

    MOVEABLE FEAST 2014 From whole cracked crabs to lamb burritos: eating my way through coastal California bike tours

  • Blame it on Rio

    MOVEABLE FEAST 2014 The city on most everyone's bucket list, for delicious reasons.

  • Go west

    MOVEABLE FEAST 2014 Chomping through the varied eats of the Western neighborhoods.

  • Also from this author

  • Our 50 favorite San Francisco bars -- all on one page!

  • The G50: San Francisco's top bars

    From splashy dives to upscale classics (and everything in between) — our favorite spots to grab a drink

  • Fresh sips

    Cocktail, food on the side: What to eat when you're sipping around town