You are to be pardoned if you approach the nondescript brick SoMa building that houses Una Pizza Napoletana, walk through the door (plate glass, like the rest of the façade), and have the brief sensation of arriving at an art gallery between installations. Or perhaps the high-ceilinged, white-walled cube — with a turquoise-tiled conical shape rising from the center — seems more like a museum? No. It's a pizzeria, home to tattooed chef and former New Yorker Anthony Mangieri, and the tiled shrine is the pizza oven. Pizza is the sole objet d'art: that's it, nothing more, no sides, substitutions, condiments, nada. The drill isn't quite as severe as on Seinfeld's "Soup Nazi" episode, but it's still a singular — and tasty — experience.

210 11th St., SF. (415) 861-3444, www.unapizza.com/sf