Best of the Bay 2013: BEST BEST "MADE" PIZZA

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If San Francisco's classier pizza joints ever threw down in some kind of mozzarella-fueled turf war, the smart money would be on Capo's — the year-old North Beach joint that's just as versed in Prohibition Era gangster culture as it is in tasty pizza. Chef Tony Gemignani clearly knows what he's doing with his award-winning, Chicago-style pies (four choices of crust, from deep dish to "cracker thin"), but the man also has a flair for décor: hand-painted tin ceiling, a 1930s phone booth that actually functions, a bar that pays homage to the Golden Gate Bridge, and snappy red leather booths themed around gangsters of note — with memorabilia to match. Where else can you enjoy Quattro Forni (a pie specialty made using four ovens!) while admiring poker chips once owned by Al Capone? Nowhere else, wise guy. Capisce?

641 Vallejo, SF. (415) 986-8998, www.sfcapos.com