Restaurant Review

Bar Jules

A well-polished changeable menu and great hipster watching distinguish this Parisian-influenced hotspot
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paulr@sfbg.com

From hither and yon comes word that the restaurant world is troubled. Read more »

Green Chile Kitchen

Inspired by Mexico and New Mexico, this bright spot could be the best restaurant in its neighborhood
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paulr@sfbg.com

You would expect that a restaurant with "green chile" in its name would serve at least one memorable dish with green chiles, and Green Chile Kitchen does. In fact, the restaurant serves a host of memorable dishes (some with green chiles, many others without) and, because it's in the middle of NoPa rather than at, or just past, the edge of it, Green Chile could be the best restaurant in NoPa. Read more »

Zuppa

A buzzing yet intimate Italian spot whose dishes spark lively conversation
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paulr@sfbg.com

As a charter member of the Globe fan club, I tend to be favorably disposed toward any of that restaurant's descendants, cousins, siblings, or other relations. Read more »

Nopa

Emerging from an avalanche of early acclaim to be a genuinely winning restaurant
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paulr@sfbg.com

A hoary bit of wisdom teaches that we should be careful what we wish for, because we might get it — and if we are a new restaurant wishing for a meteoric rise, what might we expect? Few restaurants in recent memory have soared as sensationally as Nopa, which opened near the Panhandle in the spring of 2006 to widespread acclaim. Read more »

Cafe Mystique

A handsome interior, Moroccan-influenced menu -- and hearty favorites like beef stew
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paulr@sfbg.com

If you squint — hard, on a night of driving rain, and you earlier washed your contact lenses down the sink by accident, leaving yourself legally blind — you might just catch a hint of a glimpse of a shadow of the Castro Street that figures so prominently in the movie Milk. Today's Castro Street, like its 1970s antecedent, is dominated by the Castro Theater's gigantic sign (a colorful spectacle even to the grievously nearsighted), and it's still just a few blocks long, a brief run from Market Street to 19th Street. Read more »

Cafe Kati

A fusion-cuisine pioneer whose blend of French and Asian influences remain fresh
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paulr@sfbg.com

If the second half of the 1990s stands to be remembered as an era of golden bubble baths in San Francisco, the decade's quite different first half (less opulence, more calamities) might be remembered as a magical era of neighborhood restaurants. Read more »

Anchor and Hope

A brotherhood of fish at one of the more architecturally compelling restaurants in the city
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paulr@sfbg.com

If there are more architecturally compelling restaurants in the city than the troika assembled by the troika consisting of the Rosenthal brothers and Doug Washington, I don't know of them. Read more »

Henry's Hunan Restaurant

A broad selection of Chinese greatest hits, a few clever wrinkles, and plenty of chili kick on outer Church Street
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paulr@sfbg.com

In ages past, I belonged to a small literary society — a sect, if you like. Let us call this society the Out of Print Society. Read more »

Amber India

Gratifyingly spicy and carefully prepared dishes keep SoMa diners coming back for more
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paulr@sfbg.com

Whatever you think a tony Indian restaurant might look like, you're probably not picturing Amber India. On the other hand, if you're wondering what a tony Indian restaurant smells like, you probably already know: it smells like the regular kind, which is to say, it smells of curry. Read more »

Andalu

Though its name recalls a region of Spain, the commanding corner restaurant's menu of small plates is surprisingly and delightfully global
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paulr@sfbg.com

Before small plates go the way of the brontosaurus and the leisure suit, I thought I should look in on Andalu, which has held down the corner of 16th and Guerrero streets now for the better part of a decade and was one of the progenitors of our much-discussed "global tapas" trend. Read more »