Food & Drink

Hot Green

The kale's the thing
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Kale: what is to be done? Yes, kale has its virtues: it's good for us (as indicated by its dark green color), it presents a variety of interesting textures, it isn't too expensive, and it turns up in winter, when our farmers markets are desolate. Still, kale is among the trickier leafy greens to handle. Read more »

The JonBenet Ramsey

A vigorous, pounding cocktail
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REVIEW So magical it is to be a six-year-old beauty pageant starlet! Whether it's vomiting backstage at Raven concerts, shooting free speed while having your nipples taped up, or getting "auditioned" on the hood of Tommy's PowerWheel, the list of privileged moments seems to never end. Read more »

A Tale of two malls

Out the Door and New Filipinas
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paulr@sfbg.com

Whether euphemism is entirely a separate language or just a dialect, we need translational efforts to understand what is really being said in its slippery idiom. When foreign ministers tell the media they have enjoyed "frank and cordial discussions," we peek behind the fluttering veil of words to see that they bitterly argued and threatened each other. Read more »

Ways we were

Banana House
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le_chicken_farmer@yahoo.com

CHEAP EATS I was sitting at the bar drinking whiskey with Hobosack, talking about art and writing and waiting for the band to go on so that we could move our heads and close our eyes and rattle on the inside. It's like being back in grad school, I thought, and this was a warm thing to think on a cold, cold night, until I realized that ... why the hell would I want to be back in grad school?

Actually, I can think of some answers to that question: namely, Dash would still be alive, and the Bomb. I wouldn't be scared. Read more »

Silex Appeal

Vouvray surprise
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As the recycling truck hauls away the last of the year's emptied wine bottles, we pause briefly to reflect. Winter is supposed to be the season of red wine, and this year's red wines were good — from a fine St. Emilion with the New Year's Eve rack of lamb to an excellent Groth cabernet with the New Year's night cassoulet — but the whites, I thought, were at least as distinguished. A Hafner Reserve chardonnay held up to the cassoulet as well as the cab did and maybe, with its clarifying acid, was even a little better as a strong but cooperative accompanist. Read more »

Dine Listings

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Welcome to our dining listings, a detailed guide by neighborhood of some great places to grab a bite, hang out with friends, or impress the ones you love with thorough knowledge of this delectable city. Restaurants are reviewed by Paul Reidinger (PR) or staff. Read more »

Eat Global

Pres A Vi
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paulr@sfbg.com

As a fellow traveler of the Luddites, I am obliged to treat the phrase "digital arts" — as in the Letterman Digital Arts Center, in the Presidio — with some skepticism. Of course I have a cell phone and a computer, a pair of digital apparatuses, and I do regard them as essential to life as we know it — as essential tools. Tools are servants, and although they are not devoid of value, their value is in their usefulness. Read more »

Make a wish

Suzu Japanese Restaurant
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le_chicken_farmer@yahoo.com

CHEAP EATS Sockywonk came back from Florida completely bald and we sat in the waiting room at the Kaiser lab, looking at pictures. In fluorescent lights, in the hospital hum, in the stony glare of disease ... here was Florida, her Florida friends, her Florida sister, sunshine and tank tops, big smiles, water. Read more »

In our cups

Percoutf8g, Vietnamese-style
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Although the holiday orgy of gift giving includes the giving of many pointless gifts, I was pleased to score yet more coffee-brewing equipment: a matched set of implements from Vietnam, like little tin cups with filter bottoms. Read more »

Let them eat pancakesi

Toast
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paulr@sfbg.com

Not too many years ago, the intersection of Church and 30th streets had a distinctly end-of-the-line, Hooterville flavor. It was there that Muni's J-Church streetcars ran out of track and had to turn themselves around for the voyage back to Market Street. Read more »